Efi retrofit for the 084 motor

[Bart]

THE TOOTH NUMBER LAYOUT IN THE PICTURES BELOW IS IN ERROR, the this is for a counter clockwise rotation... please i had numbered the teeth for a counterclockwise rotation. (where I was copying from a wheel that i found on the net. I wish to leave this part on. to show that sometimes the best of intentions can be the wrong information)

it has been a fun couple of days looking and coming up with a design for the crank sensor mounting plate. for some reason, I had been looking at putting the mount on the left side of the housing. Until I was asked, so where are you going to relocate the oil filter, won't it be in the way? I could always relocate it.
up until now. I had been cutting the template out with a band saw. and finishing it out with a flap disc on a grinder.. but to make this user friendly. I am wanting to cut out a T-slot with a radius. to keep the adjusting simpler.
after reading up and looking at many different forums and trigger assembly instructions, I am finding out that for a 4 cylinder motor. with it at TDC, it is preferred to have the crank sensor at 90 degrees from the missing tooth. this can be placed anywhere on the pulley, you just need to designate the correct trigger angle ATDC when tooth #1 passes the primary sensor. in the settings, the sensor needs to be at the leading edge or the trailing edge of the said tooth. and that is designated in the settings. at least that is how i am understanding it....
https://speeduino.com/wiki/index.php/Trigger_Setup
after this is done, then I worry about setting the spark and the dwell settings.
https://speeduino.com/wiki/index.php/Spark_Settings


to get this going correctly, I will be using a turn table, on a milling machine to get the correct radius milled out.
I will be turning the radius for a T-slot about 4" 4.5" from the center. in looking at mounting this on the right side of the housing, I would like to tie this to 3 of the cover bolts. there will be 2 holding it to the flat, and 1 on the side.
with the adjustable T-slot. then it will allow me to have a better adjustment capability.
also i turned out a spacer to bolt onto the front of the rope pulley. to help with once the missing tooth wheel is mounted to true it to the pulley. I'm only allowed a 1.5 mm air gap. and also, if the magnets in the pulley prove to give off to much noise. I can attach a trigger wheel to the outside of the pulley.
also, the base bracket will be out of 1/2" aluminum plate. with the stand-off holding the sensor, 1 X 1.5 x 2" block . One of the highlighted things that is stated over many times, the brackets need to be stout, to reduce any if not all vibration.
we will see out this works out...
i have submitted a couple of questions that i have on the speeduino forum, to verify it my thinking is correct. For the correct angles to enter in.
some interesting reading this is from DIYAUTOTUNE it is a megasquirt based, but uses TunerStudio also.
https://www.diyautotune.com/support/...crank-trigger/
https://www.diyautotune.com/support/...r/base-timing/

[Bart]

http://miniairboatassoc.com/forum/sh...ll=1#post36792


Bobby, Tunerstudio has 3 versions that you can choose from. I went and purchased the middle one TunerStudio MS.
they have a free version TunerStudio Lite! that you can download. it does not have the auto tune included. but if you register and purchase the TunerStudio MS. it has a feature included VE Analyze Live- Auto Tune
if you click onto the link below you will be able to see what it supports
http://www.tunerstudio.com/index.php/tuner-studio/tsarticles/119-tunerstudio-30-feature-matrix