bgmcl60 Build

[Bart]

rebar? that's interesting, i was always lead to believe that due to the unknown carbon content and variation of the makeup. that you could never trust a welded rebar to hold up to much stress.
what size of rebar would you be using that is rigid and not bend? i have always been able to bend up to #6 rebar very easily. have put a lot of it in cement forms. back in the day.
i googled the weld-ability of rebar, and it is all over the board with very different opinions , but you would need to use the correct welding procedure, and it might work,
but good luck, just curious to see how it works out.

[bgmcl60]

now i.m going in all different directions what to do. well my steel flex comes in friday so i will decide what to do after i turn the boat back over. it looked so simple and i got a can of worms with no place to fish. i might give up on this idea and just build an engine stand a be done with it. i have always been paranoid since so much has happened to me in the last few years unexpectedly and don.t want to create something that will cause a problem. when you get runned over by another boat fell out of boat 3 times in less than a month and swamped by a tug boat and list go on. my luck is so bad i'm going to sxxx can this idea and build a stand.

[Corky]

I'm not sure about the concern of a short piece of rebar inside the tubing that's tacked{at the ends} to just hold it in but I understand what you're saying...Yes, it bends but probably not in that short span...But in any case there's many things that would fit inside the EMT as added support/ piece of mind..Keeping with the "concrete" senario you could even use a forming pin for example...they're cheap and solid too..

Like I've originally stated the best way is to build the new stand to match the hull but I thought this was a quick,temporary adaptation for the old stand-to-hull relationship...

rebar? that's interesting, i was always lead to believe that due to the unknown carbon content and variation of the makeup. that you could never trust a welded rebar to hold up to much stress.
what size of rebar would you be using that is rigid and not bend? i have always been able to bend up to #6 rebar very easily. have put a lot of it in cement forms. back in the day.
i googled the weld-ability of rebar, and it is all over the board with very different opinions , but you would need to use the correct welding procedure, and it might work,
but good luck, just curious to see how it works out.

[bgmcl60]

it is temporary and yes your right about putting anything in the emp would stiffen it up. just use silicone to plug hole forget about welding. i'ii probably use a smaller piece of emt inside it. i just don't want the eng to pass me by like one of my trailers did one time a few years back. just call me bad luck.

[Corky]

Wow, it sounds like you have some good stories to tell !! With that kind of luck I'd be reevaluating every thing I did for the potential problems that follow you around.....

[bgmcl60]

well i don't live in a dome and **** happens to the best of us. just take the good with the bad, and when you have lived 74 years something is bound to happen. i seem to get a bunch at a time. to add fuel to the fire my work boats lower unit picked up a bunch of fishing line and filled lower unit up with water and now i'm replacing all the bearings 275.00, my steering cable broke and the helm bracket broke at top and only 1 bolt holding it on and consol split from the loose bolt and made it back to ramp by steering boat with the steering disconnected. both bearing on trailer are growling and needs replacing. when i finish the lower unit i have to replace both bunks on trailer broke from rust. i could go on for a while but enough about my boreing life

[aewrigh]

B.O.A.T. : break out another thousand.....or a couple in your case lol

[bgmcl60]

here is casey trying out the new boat first. what else could i say. perfect.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rMDs...ature=youtu.be

[Bart]

you make it look to easy

[bgmcl60]

when you have the right boat and a good engine and a half way plan it is easy. with a big boat the horse power over comes a lot of mistakes but a mini has to have a good boat to overcome the mistakes. the better a mini is set up the better it runs unless it's not the right boat then you need more horse power.

[Corky]

Glad to see it's up and running...Looks good !!

[bgmcl60]

it ran the best it has run since i got it. the new boat makes it feel much better than the narrow aluminum one. it gets on plane in deep water with two adults and turns 3800 rpm and stays on plane at 2900. no hesitation at all with new carburetor with no modifications.

[bgmcl60]

got the webber intake in and it looks like it was made for the 084. it can't run any better the solex because it is perfect. something i just had to try. should get the carb in today. well see. pictures won't upload.

[Bart]

have you figured out the jetting for the 32/36 carb? last winter when i was looking at this, i was getting a lot of information from some suzuki samurai builds where people have been installing these carbs. where these motors are just a little smaller than the 084 motor, but can run the rpms up just a little higher. i just wish that i would have had one of these manifolds to try, instead of building the one. there was a reason that they scared me off from a larger intake body, was from reading over so many of the carb intake mods that have built on this forum, and the one biggest complaint was when the manifold box behind the carb was to large and gas would end up falling out of the air mixture. so i was thinking to neck it down to keep the air flow from spreading out. the only thing i dont like about it, is that it sits up just a little more than i am wanting it to. i was wanting to weld the adapter to the 084 intake and skip the transition plate, but didn't know if the cast aluminum weber adapter would be comparable with the cast 084 mainifold.
i was also wanting to incorporate the tab on the front of the manifold that bolts to the case. the 32/36 is just a little heavier, and was concerned about keeping it steady.
but i am excited to see how this works, i will have to dig up the paper work that i had, on the jetting that i thought might work, and see how it compares to what you are coming up with.

[bgmcl60]

i have no idea of what jet size to use. after overhauling hundred of the holley type carburetor similar to this i never gave it a second thought but these were built for a specific engine size and all i ever did was soak carburetor and replace gaskets and needle and seats. dirt was the only problem they had. i will run this webber and see how it runs and go from there. on the solex i had to replace the high speed jet to 150 to stop the hesitation the new solex was like a different carburetor and idled better and had no hesitation out of the box. unless they screwed up and put the wrong jet in at factory i can't explain why two carburetors ran so different being the same style carburetor.

[Corky]

Amazing...It sure is a nice, clean install and you've even got the vent tube orifice for the engine breather..I'm really hoping this works out for you it sure would be nice to have another alternative for an induction system ...If it turns out the intake plenum might be too big{you'll notice it at the lower RPM range} you can always build up that center divider a little bit to take up some of the volume...But that's down the road after all tuning is exhausted...

[Bart]

the reason i was asking about the jetting, is these carbs have been installed on the engines from the 1.3 liter, to the 4.2 liter size.
and after looking at the difference that just the stock carb between the 042 motor to the 084,
the carb that i picked up had been jetted for the a jeep, so i pulled up jetting information that went with the 1.3 suzuki samurai motor.
just to get me in the ball park.
haven't had time to do much more than that. keep telling myself when i get 2 free evenings. i will get it done, and summer is almost over with.
below is a picture of some of the carb setting I pulled off the web. and if memory serves me right i think the jetting sizes in red, is what I have set for the starting base on the carb that i picked up.
i may have to open it up again, just to remember exactly what I had installed.

[bgmcl60]

thanks bart. when i get the carb this will help a lot to start. i plan on opening up the carb to see what it comes with. ups has delayed shipment for some reason and will reschedule. hope to get it this week.

[Corky]

I was reading a little more about these carbs..I had seen where you stated about the rebuild of holley carbs I didn't realize some were a partnership/license built by either holley or weber...Interesting..Holley's version, the 5200 series spanned a broad range of engines as Bart has mentioned..

Here's a cut from a discussion...I'd be interested in trying this smaller holley carb for our purposes...:Most models primary venturi diameter is 26mm and the secondary is 27mm. Throttle bore diameters are 32mm and 36mm with a 43mm center spacing on a metric flange. The stud spacing measures 47mm x 93mm.

When introduced, this carburetor only came in one size, 270CFM at three inches of mercury. In 1978, a 235CFM model was introduced on Ford and Mercury 4-cyl. engine with a 23mm primary venturi and 27mm secondary. Since 1979, Chevettes have been equipped with a 245CFM model with primary and secondary venturis of 23mm and 29mm. Venturi size refers to the narrowest channel in the carburetor throat. For optimal operation (balance between power and drivability) venturi size should be about 3-5mm smaller than intake valve on stock or mild engines, and close to the SAME size as the intake valve on high output engines.{Anyone know what the size of the intake valve is on the 084?}

I'm assuming it would be one like this....http://www.ebay.com/itm/1978-1979-Ford-Mustang-Capri-2-3L-140-CID-2-BBL-Holley-Carburetor-NOS-9809-/152658259113?epid=192425533&hash=item238b242ca9:g: 3iAAAOSw3utY68Xf&vxp=mtr

[Bart]

i was looking at the Holley carbs also. i went and purchased a "CHRYSLER DODGE OMNI HORIZON HOLLEY 6520 CARBURETOR 1.7 L ENGINE" and when i got it. even though it was for an 80's model, it had a electronic fuel metering device that needed to be hooked up to the car's computer, "live and learn" so read up on things, or you might get a bunch of boat anchors. like i have.
i had back in the day dealt with the Rochester & Carter 4 barrel carbs. so after the first attempt, I read up on the weber 32/36 for a while. and found more information on tuning these carbs, that dealt with the smaller CID motors. the only drawback that i see, is like on my 084, i dont have a redrive. so my rpm is limited to the prop speed. where with a redrive you can run the 084 up to the 3600 rpm range, and that is where the horse power is. i dont know if i have ever seen a chart that compared the horse power curve to the torque curve on this motor. someday when i get this running. i would love to put this motor on a dyno and just see what the power curve is. had a chance to purchase one a few years ago. i passed because i didn't see using it that much. but maybe someday, if i come across the right deal. one would be fun to have. but the closest i can get at the moment is with an O2 sensor. at least then i could get the fuel mixture correct. i think once things slow down this winter. i am going to have some fun with this motor and finish up the few projects that i have been sitting on.