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Thread: Saddle Cutting/ Notching Stainless Tube

  1. #1

    Saddle Cutting/ Notching Stainless Tube

    Hi Gents:

    Its been a hot minute since I last posted. Just getting parts for the engine and trying to plan a wedding. Anyhow I was wondering if any of you could shed some light on how best to saddle cut tube for the seat mounts and engine stand, particularly were the tube meets a corner and runs to another tube parallel to the floor of the hull. To give you an idea, I'm looking at building rigging very similar to Aerokirks. Any pictures, video, or links would be great. I've looked on youtube and all I can find is how to make a true saddle cut T-joint, which doesn't really apply to this build. Thanks as always!

  2. #2
    Super Moderator Corky's Avatar
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    Re: Saddle Cutting/ Notching Stainless Tube

    Hey Quentin...Look at my build thread... post #102 for the different carbide bits I used between aluminum and steel...Then have a look at posts 251-255 for some pointers on what I did for my build....Cork
    Aluminum .120 14' X 76" hull
    teledyne 4A084-4 engine
    Circle S 1.69:1 reduction
    67" Whirlwind "Razor X" prop
    Ready for the water !!

  3. #3
    Member yamahaulerG1's Avatar
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    Re: Saddle Cutting/ Notching Stainless Tube

    Sorry never used stainless
    Last edited by yamahaulerG1; 02-09-2017 at 08:44 PM.

  4. #4

    Re: Saddle Cutting/ Notching Stainless Tube

    Quote Originally Posted by Corky View Post
    Hey Quentin...Look at my build thread... post #102 for the different carbide bits I used between aluminum and steel...Then have a look at posts 251-255 for some pointers on what I did for my build....Cork

    Thanks
    Corky I remember that now. I guess I'm trying to figure out how to brace the tube while using the bits for a precise cut. Did you just old school it with a vice and a drill?

  5. #5

    Re: Saddle Cutting/ Notching Stainless Tube

    Thanks. Did you go with conduit for the cage and the the seat frames then?

  6. #6
    Super Moderator Corky's Avatar
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    Re: Saddle Cutting/ Notching Stainless Tube

    Yes, I used 3/4 EMT for the main rails and 1/2 inch for the other areas...I used an air die grinder with the carbide burrs... I actually just held them in my hand as I cut the saddles{I had gloves on} you get the feel for it quickly...Aerokirk used stainless tubing which will outlast the EMT by many years but I'll tell you from experience stainless is tough to get a nice weld on he did a fantastic job on his..Any excess,molten slag will stick to the stainless tubing like wax down the side of a candle...
    Aluminum .120 14' X 76" hull
    teledyne 4A084-4 engine
    Circle S 1.69:1 reduction
    67" Whirlwind "Razor X" prop
    Ready for the water !!

  7. #7
    Member aerokirk's Avatar
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    Re: Saddle Cutting/ Notching Stainless Tube

    Hi qahqn8,
    You can get by pretty well with just a protractor and a good vice to get the angles of the cuts. I used basically the same carbide bits as Corky. Most builders just use 1/2" conduit for their frames but I used stainless because I didn't want future corrosion issues. Stainless tubing is much stronger than conduit so I was able to use smaller tube (still called 1/2" but it's measured at the outside diameter whereas 1/2" conduit has an actual OD greater than 1/2"). If you do decide to make your stucture out of stainless make sure you take great care as to where your shavings land as they make devilish slivers and they don't rust away so your shop will be a nasty place for quite some time.

    I also used 1/2" for all my rigging and 3/4" for the motor mounts
    11'6" Marty Bray Hull
    4A084 Continental
    Circle "S" 1.69:1 Reducer
    67" Whirlwind Razor X Prop
    SS Rigging

  8. #8

    Re: Saddle Cutting/ Notching Stainless Tube

    Thanks guys. I would not have thought aluminum emt could be used for a structural material. Learn something new everyday! My welding skills are pretty rough so im hoping to get practice sticking these joints together before the real deal. Sounds like the emt is more forgiving, and i hope to powder coat most of the rigging anyway so corrosion may not be as big an issue. I appreciate the heads up on the slag. Last thing i want is bunch of razor wire stuck on my floor!

  9. #9
    Super Moderator Corky's Avatar
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    Re: Saddle Cutting/ Notching Stainless Tube

    Actually, the emt is steel...It has a protective layer of galvanizing on it that makes it appear much brighter than plain steel...
    Aluminum .120 14' X 76" hull
    teledyne 4A084-4 engine
    Circle S 1.69:1 reduction
    67" Whirlwind "Razor X" prop
    Ready for the water !!

  10. #10

    Re: Saddle Cutting/ Notching Stainless Tube

    Can you still weld it since its galvanized?

  11. #11
    Level 1 Supporter Bart's Avatar
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    Re: Saddle Cutting/ Notching Stainless Tube

    there are 2 methods that are good, oxy/acetylene & MIG are the best. these both make a good solid weld,
    using a stick welder, puts out to much heat, the weld is good, but the metal next to the weld becomes too brittle. and will shatter with impact.

    you do not want to breathe the fumes, you can wear a respirator with the correct filters. or always stay up wind of the fumes. and always have good ventilation. i would not weld it in your garage if it is attached to your home, don't want the fumes getting into you home.
    you do not want to get galvanized poisoning. trust me it doesn't feel good.
    hope that this helps.

    below is a link, that is a good read,
    http://www.sperkoengineering.com/htm...Galvanized.pdf
    Last edited by Bart; 02-11-2017 at 01:51 PM.

  12. #12

    Re: Saddle Cutting/ Notching Stainless Tube

    Thats what i have always heard. I dont even know anyone who has welded galvanized steel.... now im really interested hahaha. Ill have to do a little more research on this. Thanks all. Is it snowing on you Bart?

  13. #13
    Super Moderator Corky's Avatar
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    Re: Saddle Cutting/ Notching Stainless Tube

    I've made myself sick at least a dozen times throughout my build while welding the EMT...It sneaks up on you and it's too late when you realize what's happening...I end up heading for the milk supposedly that's the only cure for it...I got smarter and drank the milk BEFORE I welded.... knowing I'd get a wiff of the fumes somehow... I can wear the welding helmet,and some magnification glasses if needed...But the respirator under the helmet with the glasses is too much for me I might as well wear a space suit...
    Aluminum .120 14' X 76" hull
    teledyne 4A084-4 engine
    Circle S 1.69:1 reduction
    67" Whirlwind "Razor X" prop
    Ready for the water !!

  14. #14
    Administrator Papee's Avatar
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    Re: Saddle Cutting/ Notching Stainless Tube

    I've learned to stay out of the fumes when welding it. I don't do any prep just weld. If you have the patience sanding off the galvanized layer helps. Even better than milk is a piece of dry bread. The bread soaks op the poison. If you do the tac tac method using a mig and 020 wire it helps a lot to reduce the fumes.

    I will do a video on a very easy way to cut the saddles just using a cutoff wheel no matter what angle you are cutting. I'm making a front bumper for my Jeep right now and set up for steel welding so I'll throw a quick video together.
    Please check out our YouTube channel and subscribe! Our YouTube Channel helps fund the site. Check it out at https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCTv...FrJP7yQVFVZnyA


  15. #15

    Re: Saddle Cutting/ Notching Stainless Tube

    Thanks papee! I'm excited to see the video

  16. #16
    Administrator Papee's Avatar
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    Re: Saddle Cutting/ Notching Stainless Tube

    Here's the video. I tried using four cameras so I could get detailed shots of the process and ended up not getting anything good. I shot it again and used one camera. If this is still confusing I'll make another more detailed one. If there is interest I can make a video on making struts that fit tight the first time with no measuring. I can also do one on welding the conduit if wanted.



    Last edited by Papee; 02-27-2017 at 04:15 PM.
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