New 4a084 Build

[qahqn8]

Also, I found out that Whirlwind is a Circle S retailer but they're wanting $1600 per unit. Is that about what you all paid? What about the arrowprop reduction gear? Any thoughts or firsthand experience? Better yet, has anyone successfully built their own gear for an 084? I realize these little things can get pricey but $1600 for a gear box seems outrageous to me.

[aerokirk]

I paid $1350 for my Circle-S from Chuck Rackley at Airboat Pros in 2014. I know it's a lot of money but the craftsmanship is top notch. I've got over one hundred hours on mine so far and the only problem I've had is with the idler roller which I have disabled by tying it back away from the belt as it's not really needed and makes a hell of a racket at certain rpms. Just a word of caution though, make sure you tie wire the idler arm adjustment nut to the frame as mine vibrated loose and went through my brand new whirlwind prop ($$$).

[qahqn8]

Thanks Aerokirk:

If they're the best option I understand the price is worth it. I know the tolerances have to be very tight and precision always costs money. Time to start saving up!

[qahqn8]

Hi Guys:

I have more stupid questions! Why is there an oil tube running to the governor?

[qahqn8]

Can I just plug the outlet on top of the block once the governor oil tube is removed?

[Bart]

first question. the oil line lubricates the governor shaft. and drains down onto the timing gears. on the back side of the timing gear cover there is a splash guard that keeps the oil from draining directly onto the breather tube that feeds air to the air cleaner. (I have some pictures of this on the link that I have talked about putting timing marks on the front pulley)

second question. yes everyone has plugged it off. a few have wondered about the effect of the lack of oil draining onto the timing gears to keep them lubricated. some have ran the motor for many years this way. and have stated that when they pull the replacement governor cover off, the gears still appear to be lubricated.

(I have looked at this for a while and googled (timing gear oiling) it has sent me to a link on Grumpy's performance forum. that has some interesting thoughts. where they talk about drilling a 1/32" -#72 drill bit hole in the back of the oil journal plug, so that the timing gears can have some oil sprayed on them )

with this insight, I am thinking of following their thoughts. I know this motor is not a high performance engine, by any means.
but it has been a fun motor to study up on, and see what others have done with it.

[qahqn8]

Hi guys - starting to remove the stock parts and add the upgrades. Quick question, these are 2 of the 4 bolts I need to remove the governor correct? This is the opening that needs to be covered with a plate? Thanks.

[qahqn8]

Question 2 - Why is there an inlet from the air intake into the motor (I'm talking about the inlet with the silver ring above the stator in this picture). Should this be plugged?

Thanks for the help gents!

[Bart]

first question. yep, you need to remove the 4 bolts & the oil line, to remove the governor. you will need to put a plug in where the oil line comes out of the case. and install a cover plate.
second question. the part in question is a warm air breather tube, which allows air to be sucked out of the crank case which helps with keeping the carb from freezing. behind the small plate is a small reed valve which allows air to be sucked out. but will close if the the direction of the air is reversed. (in case of a backfire)
it looks like all that have changed to the Volkswagen carb, are running a tube to the air cleaner. and have had great success with the carb not freezing.
glad to see that your still finding time to play with this project.

[Corky]

And adding that vent line into the air cleaner also helps scavenge any crankcase vapors...Another added bonus is creating suction in the crankcase that supposedly helps with engine operation as well as pulling out any moisture that may be in there..Much like the PCV in an auto engine...Bottom line is don't be tempted to block it off the engine crankcase needs that vent...

[bgmcl60]

qahqn8 you asked about a belt drive i too was trying to decide which way to go. i decided to go with arrow belt drive because of price. and its a few pounds lighter. i haven't used mine but twice. the second time i used it i noticed the rpm going higher than normal and stopped on a sand bar and tightened the belt an fixed problem. took more time disconnecting battery than adjusting the belt. probably not as precision made as circle s but were not useing it on an airplane either. i think they will get the job done the same way at less expense. if my budget would allow i would have bought circle s but i needed other things more. i have nothing to say bad about arrow props and they are very friendly and goes the extra mile to make you happy. i also didn't like the long wait time on the circle s. i think the trick to getting that thick belt on the first time before it stretches is to mount the plate with top pulley without tightening it up and slide belt on bottom then over top pulley before you slide the bottom pulley on the shaft. you have to slide the bottom pulley up against the top pulley to get the belt on. after it stretches some it should be easier. also the circle s comes with a starter mounting hole. not sure if starter comes with it or not. you could rig up one like i did using a harley ring gear and chevy mini starter if you decide to go with arrow belt drive.

[qahqn8]

Hi Bart! Good to hear from you. Thanks for the information. That Solex carb Im putting on there has a scavenger intake on it, I'll probably run a vaccum hose from the crankcase port to that and see what happens! Hows your build going?

[qahqn8]

Hi Corky! Thanks for the info. Like I told Bart, I think the Solex carb I have actually has a port for scavenging so I may try running it through there. I'm going to touch base with the VW mechanic before I do though. Hope things are going well for you!

[qahqn8]

HI - Thanks for the feedback! Im glad to hear that the system works on your build. Im still trying to decide as I reconfigure the motor but you've got me thinking. If I remember correctly the arrow drive did not have a mount for a starter correct? How did you mount your starter? Thanks again for help, Im interested to learn more.

[bgmcl60]

what i did was take a 350 chevy flex plate cut out the center to fit over the top pulley bearing and cut the ring gear off and replace with a harley 102 tooth ring gear then i welded the flex plate to the harley ring gear and mounted on rear of top pulley with existing holes in pulley. cut a bracket out of angle iron and welded it to side of top pulley bracket.

[bgmcl60]

this is the harley ring gear welded to chevy flex plate.

[qahqn8]

Nice work - the pictures are helpful. Do you have any of the system mounted on your boat?

[bgmcl60]

here is a video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f3lwtnYOjgc

[qahqn8]

Nice! Thats what I needed to see. Good simple set up. I really appreciate the help. What kind of starter you using?

[bgmcl60]

i.m going to take the mounting plate off and reweld all welds. it looks bad now but i was in a hurry to find out if it would work. its a 350 mini starter 67.89 at ebay