Water bug

[Coyotes-R-Us]

Maybe , possibly , perhaps.
I talked with My fabricator and he is going to work this weekend and MAY get to My drive.
I told you we did one design and It di not work out.
We did a redesign and it has been two months. I can not proceed till I get it finished.
MAYBE, POSSIBLY , PERHAPS .

[Corky]

Even when you think it's all figured out there's always something you did'nt account for...Hopefully you get it squared away and on track...What happened ??? Harmonics? Side load ?? Not able to take the torsional stress ??? Share it with us for others NOT to make the same mistake please...

[Coyotes-R-Us]

I did not have anything hooked on to it yet.
Just the primary clutch.
The fabricator said to much mass on the end of the shaft spinning .
I'm going with a carrier bearing then the clutch this time.
When I ever get it back I'll have some Pics.

[Bart]

Just curious, what motor are you going with?

[Coyotes-R-Us]

1971 type 1 1600 cc VW bug motor 50/60 hp

[Coyotes-R-Us]

Well still no drive...
BUT he was working on it some , maybe this week.
I did find at my local aluminum dealer, 3 sheets 4x10 .100 5052 and a 4x4 sheet .
They will cut out the peaces do the bends for the two "CATS" for $856.
I didn't think that was out of line. They don't weld bummer, I'll need 8 welds about 30" long.
The rest I'll glue and rivet .
I think I'll go that direction, 190 pounds for 80% of the hull . About right???

[Coyotes-R-Us]

Hot dang! Got it.
Looks better .
I added a carrier bearing and extended the shaft on the motor side to go into
the Pilot baring. Should work better.
I ordered the aluminum 3 and 1/2 sheets 4X 10-5052 .100.
There going to plasma cut the cuts and the bends on there brake.
My fabricator said he will do the 8 welds I will need for $100.
I'll glue and rivet the rest.

[Bart]

I understand now, what happened when you mentioned that the first attempt didn't go so well. many don't realize how much of a side load, that this style of clutch will put on the end of the shaft.
i would recommend to mount the pillow block and pilot bearing so it will move with the motor.
this set up, looks like it will keep the main bearing on the motor, from any side load also.
it is fun to see different ways to make things work
the clutch looks like an comet Salisbury clutch, what is the engagement RPM that you are looking for?
have fun and keep up the good work.

[Coyotes-R-Us]

Brand of clutch ????
It is off an old Johnson skee Horse
I would Like it to kick in at about 1700RPM
The side panel on the sled say that.
The Info on owners Manual says 2700 rpm.
Looking in to trying to change the Springs, no weights...

[Coyotes-R-Us]

I was talking with an old snowmobile guy that works on the old stuff.
He says My clutch should kick in around 2000 RPM. That will work I think.
BUT if I need it slower I have to change the spring on the secondary clutch.
I also found out the reduction.
It starts out at 3 to 1,and decreases to .70 to 1
How much do you think I'll need from there.
Ill Have roller chain drive from the secondary to the prop.
I would to keep the motor rpm around 3000.
I want to get a prop that has a lot of push not huge speed.

[Coyotes-R-Us]

I'm having the 5052 cut and bent, Should be ready Monday.

I ordered the "Glue" for the hull!
Two part epoxy 32 oz. each.

"EPOWELD 13230A - 32 oz. Poly Bottle
EPOWELD 13230B - 32 oz. Poly Bottle"

64 oz. $95.50 with shipping .

$.67 an ounce

HUMM hope it works,

[Coyotes-R-Us]

I'm using a snowmobile clutch/drive you all know.
They have a secondary clutch and it is attached to a
reverse transition. I cant do it any other way.
I would like to change the spring to make it engage
at a slower RPM .
Anyone know how to get one apart?

[lahti]

Hi; I have owned & used the OMC (Johnson etc) snowmobiles. The clutches were excellent. Just to be on the same page engine = primary clutch and the driven clutch is the secondary. The primary has 2 springs in your style- one in circle like a garter belt under the round cover,used to actuate the movable sheave. The 2nd coil spring on the shaft pushes the sheave in the opening direction and controls engagement rpm and has little effect on the shift rpm. To reduce engagement rpm install a weaker spring or shorten by cutting 1/2 inch from the coil wire (not the spring length) and testing until the correct rpm is reached. The secondary spring strength and preload control the up and down shift and are adjusted to bring max engine rpm to the desired value under load. Different springs used to be available. Loosening the cam fixed to the shaft (carefully-) and rotating to tighten or loosen the coil will adj rpm up(tighter) or down (looser). Different garter springs were hard to get back then, but they act as the weights in the primary. Adjust engagement slightly high and adjust the secondary to get proper engine rpm. If the prop goes overspeed it needs to be bigger, otherwise you are transferring maximum power available. If you change any item ie prop the settings need to be checked they are in limits.Also you should not need the chain drive part. Just mount the secondary on the prop shaft as the ratio change should cover engine to prop rpm. If it is easier you can get a shaft mount secondary (Polaris comes to mind) as long as diameter and belt widths match. Best of luck and I hope this helps a bit. Also look for snomobile clutch tuning on the internet, info is there. Mike

[Coyotes-R-Us]

Thanks it does in deed.
Is there a way to get secondary clutch off the transition?
I would love to try to eliminate it.

[lahti]

Hi; I don't remember how to remove the driven clutch from the transmission.(this has forward and reverse). As previously noted other snomobiles use a keyed shaft the clutch just slides on. This may be easier than taking the transmission apart. Used parts should be available. I used a Kohler 2 stroke with a Comet primary and Polaris secondary to do exactly this. Worked well but I needed more HP. As an aside if the garter spring in the primary breaks there will be lots of vibration and poor performance. Good Luck Mike

[Coyotes-R-Us]

Thanks again

[Coyotes-R-Us]

Some Hull work...
I need to make a trip to the welder.

[Coyotes-R-Us]

[SIZE=4]More stuff
I got a 3/4" 10 foot peace of steel conduit today.
I got a 10" Metal cut off wheel for the table saw.
I cut a slit down the length of the tube and cut a miter on the end.
Just "Dry fitting it and testing how much work it will be.
I'll will have to have my buddy weld the ends together, and have to make Bands/clamps to attach it but here is what It looks like. I like it.



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[SIZE=4]I'm waiting on a rivet set For my air hammer to start gluing and riveting them together.
I'll have the "corners" Al, welded after I finish putting them together.

[preventec47]

Are you close enough to the end to predict any weights of the total hull or the separate hull components ?
When all is said and done it all adds up to the total weight of the airboat and I was wondering if your Cat Hulls are going to be
heavy or light with the thick aluminum skin.

[Coyotes-R-Us]

5025 .10 aluminum 31" X 11' 6" each cat ( 7'8" in the water ) 120 pounds each.
Still need reinforcement in the cats another 40 Pounds . 3 sheets expanded Aluminum May be 80 ponds.
320 ???
Motor is 250 Ish
Prop and drive ??