Corky's Build

[Corky]

And a needed addition to the build...A pushpole....In this case it's a 10ft pole...I used a 1.25 sch 40 PCV pipe and end plugs.. I installed a wooden 1.25 round stock piece into the pipe to make it rigid...So now I have a pole that matches the build...It tucks nicely into its spot along the cage at the rear...

[Papee]

Good idea but will it still float? Let me know how you like it. Seems like it would slip easily on the rocks. I do like the idea though.

[Corky]

I'll have to give it the float test and see how it works..Should float IMO...I added two stainless steel spring clips for the front pushpole mounts...I can snap the pole in on either side and simply grab it when needed...I did'nt want it up too close to the gunnel in the front so I can step in and out of the boat without having the pole hang me up...And as shown before the cage will hold the back in place nicely...

[Corky]

I finished up the fuel door...Which involved a flush mount grab handle... And then added the door stops...These keep the door flush with the deck...They're made from poly plastic and have a countersunk hole for the stainless panhead screws to sit in their position...

I'll throw in a pic of the anchor..It's a 10lb rubber coated mushroom...With a red,white, and blue rope using a heavy duty carabiner...

[Corky]

I wanted to touch on this I know there's been a lot of questions regarding oil requirements for the 084...I'm going to use Shell Rotella 15w-40 diesel oil...It has a higher concentration of zinc than a standard engine oil...I also add a bottle of Eastwood's ZDDP additive to the mix for the extra protection...I've used this combo on high performance engines with great results and haven't had a camshaft failure even with spring pressures that are almost double what the 084 probably has...

[Corky]

Today was electrical systems check...Everything worked flawlessly...Nav lights,horn,bilge pump all work as expected...
The Circle S starter spins the engine over nicely...I was a little surprised on just how loud the magneto "clicks" as you're spinning the engine...Does it click that loud all the time ???

[aerokirk]

Great news Corky,
The magneto has an impulse coupling that fires a super hot spark for starting which is the loud click you are hearing. It also serves to retard the spark until almost top dead center which helps keep the engine from kicking back (firing in reverse) during the slow cranking. The impulse coupling will cease operation with increased rotational speed when the engine starts. You want to hear that noise cause it signals the mag is doing what it should.

[Corky]

Thanks Ted...I remember reading here somewhere about another member questioning that loud clicking when he was trying to rope start his engine...I didn't realize just how loud it would be until today.. Now I hear why it gets questioned... It almost sounds like a spun bearing to an unseasoned owner...But after the initial shock the repetition is much faster than the revolutions of the engine...I put my hand on the mag and felt it immediately then it sunk in as to what it was...

Funny thing is, I've used these engines out in the field when I was in the military and just don't remember that sound...But then it was still in stock form with all the shields and generator attached maybe that makes a difference for the sound....

A few side notes.... The starter engages the ring gear nicely...I added the Rotella oil and that ZDDP additive and figured I'd send the oil through the system by spinning the engine a few times...Which it did to a point...The oil pressure gauge never moved...I thought I'd see something on the gauge but I'm not overly concerned because A}I drained the old oil completely from the pan to add the temperature sending unit and B}The oil cooler and lines are dry and probably has air in the system...I'm sure the initial fire-up will make the gauge jump up to life...

One thing I did notice...My small lawnmower sized battery didn't hold out as well as I would have thought...After testing the electric system and going through the engine starting circuits the 420CCA battery seemed a little slow...It didn't go down for the count but I could definitely tell it got drawn down some...After putting it back on the charger it was showing only 67 % capacity ....Hmmmm...Hopefully I won't have too many problems on the water...I'll definitely have that pull rope in the emergency kit !!!

[Bart]

Im glad the all your checks are turning out positive. it doesn't appear that you have forgotten any thing on this build
it has always been fun to look at what you have incorporated, as you have put this boat together. can't wait to hear how it operates,
the magneto clicking must have had a good echo in the shop. it can be very loud, if you are not expecting it. glad that everything is coming out on a good note. keep up the good workmanship.

[Papee]

You're going to hear the valves tap for a while when you start it, don't be alarmed.

[Corky]

OK Papee thanks I'll keep that in mind...Too bad there isn't a way to pre-oil the engine like automotive applications...Anyhow I need to get the boat trailer modified to hold my hull and get it outside for the initial fire-up so it will be a while yet...

[Papee]

OK Papee thanks I'll keep that in mind...Too bad there isn't a way to pre-oil the engine like automotive applications...Anyhow I need to get the boat trailer modified to hold my hull and get it outside for the initial fire-up so it will be a while yet...

I hear the lifters for 50-60 ft every time I take off from the ramp. When the lifters quiet I know it's ready to take off.

[aerokirk]

I hear the lifters for 50-60 ft every time I take off from the ramp. When the lifters quiet I know it's ready to take off.

I can certainly confirm what you're saying with my boat also Papee ... if I haven't run it for a week or more and start it, it will rap for about 5 minutes or so. It's really unsettling to listen to it but I've become accustomed to hearing it. I only allow it to run at idle speed until I hear the rapping stop.

Corky, don't worry too much about airlock as you'll probably find that you have 40psi or more registering on your gauge within seconds of your startup. I kept the farthest downstream hose connection disconnected after mounting my radiator and was amazed to have oil coming out of it after only seconds of cranking.

[Corky]

Well, it's been a while since any progress reports were made on this build.. The good news is the fish & boat commission finally found my paperwork{I'm assuming} under the trash can by their desk then managed to sign and send out some paperwork by folding it into a paper airplane and throwing it up and over the pile to the outgoing mail...And it only took eight weeks...... So anyone in Pa. wanting to get the HIN,title, and registration numbers take note of the wait and factor that in...Unfortunately I didn't and a good chunk of the summer is gone..But enough of that...

Today's task was stamping the HIN {hull identification number} on various areas around the hull.. Most obvious is the pad I made for the transom...The standard coast guard rule for this is permanently affixing the number on the hull's back,right transom within 2 inches from the top...The letters/numbers need to be at least 1/4 inch in size... In addition to this area you need to add the HIN to at least one area not readily seen ... I added it to a few areas...

Next note : At one time our hulls needed a capacity plate stating the maximum persons and load...I've been informed by the Pa fish and boat commission the coast guard no longer requires our homemade hulls to have that plate and so the commission in turn no longer requires one either...So check with your state it's probably the same over the U.S....

[Papee]

The capacity plate confused me. I don't have one now but the way I read it if you sell it you need one on there. As I said, I'm not clear on that.

[Corky]

The way that the capacity plate discussion came about was the fact that the boat commission offered a capacity plate for a fee..I was going to take the easy{?} way out and have them make me one while all the documentation was done..That way I didn't need to figure it out{the formula is a little more involved and would take more time than I wanted to spend} and they would do all the work... That's when I was informed they no longer offered the service because it's not required and it's in the process of being taken off the site.. So that's the latest FWIW...

[Corky]

I've got a few things that need attention before I pull it out of the shop and load it on the trailer.

.First up was the deck's pedestal seat...In the name of keeping the hull weight down I added only two supports under the deck...These would have been fine if that seat wasn't added to the deck..When the pedestal assembly is put in place the seat {with me in it}flexed downward and wobbled around too much for my liking......So I added a bolt-in cross support assembly between those front-to-back supports...That kept the base from sinking but it still rocked front to back more than I wanted......OK I weigh over 200 lbs and could probably miss a few meals and not starve in the process...But I know how this stuff goes and if I let it go eventually the aluminum sheeting would keep flexing and eventually have some type of failure....I needed something light but structurally sound to keep that pedestal base from moving AT ALL... So...I ended up making four braces from 3/4 inch conduit for the base...These fasten under the deck at each corner and are anchored into the hull's floor channel...As you remember those are 3 inch and relatively thick...Now the pedestal base is secured with no movement/flex in any direction and I can have my double bacon cheeseburger while reeling in the big one... I'll throw up a pic of the original under deck bracing first..Then you can see the bolt-in cross brace assembly with the conduit...This route didn't add but a few pounds but there was no way around it for the long haul...

[Papee]

The way that the capacity plate discussion came about was the fact that the boat commission offered a capacity plate for a fee..I was going to take the easy{?} way out and have them make me one while all the documentation was done..That way I didn't need to figure it out{the formula is a little more involved and would take more time than I wanted to spend} and they would do all the work... That's when I was informed they no longer offered the service because it's not required and it's in the process of being taken off the site.. So that's the latest FWIW...

IF you decide to make one let me know. I'm sure I have the figures in my paperwork for the green boat. They should be really close.

[Corky]

After adding the registration numbers and sticker to the hull the boat went on the trailer today...{see the trailer build thread for the mods it needed}.. It loaded very nice the rollers worked perfectly... Here's the thing...The trailer is fine,plenty of room...But the quickslick bottom makes it slide around like it's on ice !! ...I couldn't believe it...I can grab a side and give it a little shove and it slides so easy...Too easy actually I'm going to add some side bumpers to keep it in place...I can already see I'll need to be careful unloading this thing it would take off right off the trailer quickly..
Anyhow it was out in the sun getting a tan today and I've freed up shop space...It's time for the initial fire-up this weekend but first I need to seal up the valve covers they have some seepage{I took them off to polish them} so I'm going to pull them again and add some sealer before the big ceremony...

[Bart]

The bottoms are slick, that is for sure, mine will slide off on level ground, if there is a breeze, and it isn't tied down.
But that is another story.

Can't wait to see how the testing goes