Thread: Corky's Build

  1. #21
    Super Moderator Corky's Avatar
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    Re: Corky's Build

    So at this point I've flipped the {now 14 ft} piece over for the backside welding...The technique I'm using is simple with the heatsinks...Weld a few inches,skip a few, weld again...Clean the part and weld in the remaining areas...Sure beats fooling around and it actually took more time to get everything in place than the actual welding...The inside weld will be left as is for strength.....The last pic is one of the complete side showing ZERO warpage...I'm betting I could run one continious bead but I'm chicken !!! ...
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  2. #22
    Member aerokirk's Avatar
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    Re: Corky's Build

    Nice job Corky ... really appreciate the detailed play-by-play description! I'm sure this will be of great value to other builders. I'm assuming that you will also need to seam the bottom plate ... will you be able to keep the seam above water level?
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  3. #23

    Re: Corky's Build

    i have a question about seams and i hope i can be clear in my question. if there is a seam in the sides and the bottom, is it better to have the side seams on one end of the boat and the bottom seam on the oposite end? lets say you have a seam on the bow of the boat and make all of your welds there. it is one large line/weld across your boat. could this be a weak point? clear as mud huh?

  4. #24
    Administrator Papee's Avatar
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    Re: Corky's Build

    It is better to put the side seam in the front and the bottom seam on the back. Joining them like Corky is doing them is fine for the sides but there should also be a backer plate welded on. I try to plan this where a support will go to hide the back piece.


    The bottom should get overlapped by at least 4" for strength. Sorry for the choppy answers, not feeling well these days.
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  5. #25
    I understand. Build looks good corky. Can't wait to see it tacked together. I love that part of the build.


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  6. #26
    Super Moderator Corky's Avatar
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    Re: Corky's Build

    I've been debating when to add the side seam reinforcement either at this point or after it's all tacked together...I was going to overlap them but I did'nt really want a visible step on the outside of the boat... As pappy has pointed out the seams will not be near each other...The sides have the 4 ft seam in the front and the bottom will have the full sheet{10 ft}in the front and the 4+ ft section in the back...Most of the seams will end up below the waterline when the boat is at rest so you need to be on your game with the welding....

  7. #27
    Super Moderator Corky's Avatar
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    Re: Corky's Build

    Well we had more snow today...And after I finished up plowing snow I spent some more time in the shop....After some debate I ended up rewelding the outer side of the bow seam then finished up the other side as well.. The worst case senario kept going through my mind...Sort of like the titanic and how new it was on the way to the bottom....What I compromised on was a weld that was dressed but still retained the strength ...I just felt I was taking too much structural integrity away for the sake of cosmetic appearance... I did get a pic of the sides as they are now...I also finished up the transom welding and it's now ready for install... Now it's on to the floor....
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  8. #28
    Administrator Papee's Avatar
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    Re: Corky's Build

    I went through that too Corky. I had been grinding the bottom to side seams to look nice then decided to build the welds back up to have that extra amount of material on the edges where it would rub on the rocks.
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  9. #29
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    Re: Corky's Build

    Corky, Your doing a fine job on the hull with what I can see in the photos. As long as you are getting good penetration of heat into the seams, I don't think you will risk failure of the joints. With you power to weight ratio on the finished boat, I really doubt you are risking any structural failure.

    I say this because of an incident I did with my boat at McKee's Falls. I was coming down water with variable winds of 5 to 10. I was lined up with the upper tier shoot when a side gust caught me. I went into the rocks, bleeding off speed. That pushed me off for the second tier, where I really went bad into the rocks. Plummeted over, submarining the nose to the bottom, sheared (tore) open the nose rake on the starboard side just off the weld. That aluminum is .190" 6061 T6. The weld held but the aluminum let loose. The bilge pump was working overtime all the way home to Halifax. ((Your Mileage May Vary.... LOL))
    kent

  10. #30
    Administrator Papee's Avatar
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    Re: Corky's Build

    Kent I did almost the same thing coming down the Juniata from Newport. I didn't have any damage from that one but I did cause a pretty good amount of damage when I lost an edge going from deep to shallow and ran into a tree on a small island. No broken welds but I did have a tree shaped bow for a while.
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  11. #31
    Member aerokirk's Avatar
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    Re: Corky's Build

    Rocks, docks and trees .... sounds like we've all been test pilots at one point or another In aviation terms it's called "taking it to the edge of the envelope ... and beyond"
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  12. #32
    Super Moderator Corky's Avatar
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    Re: Corky's Build

    I remember stuffing rags in the rip in the hull on my old boat coming down off a rock ledge that dropped more than I thought... And that one barely moves...So we'll see how well I have this one built...It's one thing building it to float, be light and get some real speed... It's another building one to make it over a rock ledge you did'nt see without going down with the ship..

    Anyhow I have the floor sheets on the table and have been debating all week about just how much, if any I'm bringing the bow in up at the tip...Common sense would tell me leaving it 5 ft the whole way to the tip is the easy way to build it and let the side flair give the illusion it's getting narrower to the front...But I've been wondering how it would look with say a 4 ft nose......Basically bringing it in 6 inches on each side... I guess I'll weld the floor sheets together and think about it some more...Anybody have some input on this ???

  13. #33
    Administrator Papee's Avatar
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    Re: Corky's Build

    My boats have a 4ft bow Corky. For me it was just cosmetic, I like the look better.
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  14. #34
    Super Moderator Corky's Avatar
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    Re: Corky's Build

    Thanks for the reply Papee...Yes and I like it better too...I've read through your build quite a few times but no mention of what you actually ended up with so I could gauge how it looked....I actually cut my sch 40 pipe down to 4 ft already but was second guessing myself now I feel better... I have my scale model at a 4 ft bow {scale is 1 inch =1 ft} and it seems good but it's made out of thick paper that's on the flimsy side and does'nt hold it's shape like a piece of metal would{remember the discussion about the "rocker" affect in the hull forum}...I'm going to start my floor radius at the same point as the side radius which in this case is 4 ft 4 inches....I'll post some pics of what I did with the floor radius before the welding ceremony...

  15. #35
    Super Moderator Corky's Avatar
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    Re: Corky's Build

    Here's a pic of the transom in it's "ready to install" form...It has a nice radius across the bottom and the final lower lengthwise measurement is 1/2 inch shy of 5 ft...This gives enough room for the 1/8th inch sidewall and another 1/8th inch for a lip to weld the 5 ft bottom to the sidewall {each side}...

    The transom beam at the top is 76 inches...And the reasoning is simple...First I like the way Papee's last build looks and secondly a reputable aluminum boat builder suggested I need at least a 72 inch beam if the bottom was 5 ft using whatever calculations he uses for the side angles so 76 it is......


    I'm going to leave the transom top center "dip" until after it's installed on the hull...I'm not sure just how much to drop the center for prop clearance/lower center of gravity and not get too low back there....And I still need to determine how wide my backwash tray will be also....
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  16. #36
    Super Moderator Corky's Avatar
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    Re: Corky's Build

    I have the front floor bow radius laid out and ready to cut tomorrow...Busy day tomorrow I need to cut the bow floor,weld the floor sheeting and if all goes well angle cut the front sch 40 pipe and weld that on also...We'll see... Finding the front radius was just like the sidewall radius...Pick a point out that's perpendicular to the beginning of the radius and have it intersect your final ending point... Just to be clear on all that's going on : The floor is 5 ft wide...The bow front needs to be at 4 ft so the arch is swinging in 6 inches on each side...The arch starts 4 ft back from the front of the sheet so you mark the aluminum sheet at 4 ft and use a straight edge across the sheet and run your radius with a stringline...Here's the simplified version of what I did...
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  17. #37
    Super Moderator Corky's Avatar
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    Re: Corky's Build

    And here's what it actually looks like on the sheet...
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  18. #38
    Super Moderator Corky's Avatar
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    Re: Corky's Build

    And a step back to look at the finished radius...A nice, sweeping curve down to 4 ft...
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  19. #39
    Super Moderator Corky's Avatar
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    Re: Corky's Build

    Now it's on to welding the floor pieces together....The front sheet is 10 ft and the back sheet is 4 ft 8 inches...This allows for the front bow radius,the 4 inch overlap of the sheets and a 1 inch lip at the back of the transom...Here's the welding in process with the supports/heatsinks in place...Both the upper and lower seams got a double wide weld for added support and strength...
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  20. #40
    Super Moderator Corky's Avatar
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    Re: Corky's Build

    Here's a look at the finished floor...Not bad...I dressed the welds just a little...I am getting better at the welding as I go...Now it's time to clean the shop for the next phase which I've been waiting for...Putting the pieces all together and see if it looks like a boat...
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