Corky's Build

[Corky]

OOPS !! Sorry guys I typed in 12 gallons in my previous post but mine is a 9 gallon...Still plenty big but I got a great deal on it and could'nt pass it up... I thought I remembered someone saying the 084 burned about 1 gallon per hour running at a fast pace...So I figured if it's a long day heading way up river then the return I might need more capacity...But as stated it usually won't be anywhere near full most of the time...I've got a 6 gallon on the red boat and it gets a little heavy lugging it up and down the river bank when it's full...I'm going to mount the 9 gallon in the boat and just bring the fuel to it when it's docked...

While we're on the subject of the fuel tank I might as well as these questions regarding the rest of the fuel system to keep this in one place through this build thread...

Since the fuel tank is going up front...Say, for the sake of argument the whole fuel line run would be 10ft {+ or-}...Here's what I was thinking of doing for my build...I was going to run a steel fuel line along the underside of my platform, properly secured and bent accordingly...At each end of the steel line {tank and engine} there'd be a section of rubber for the tank connection and a primer ball/rubber line for the engine... I know how a plastic fuel line sags,collapses, and kinks over time depending on how it's secured to the rigging and I'd like to avoid that as much as possible....Am I missing any reason not to do this ????

Next question : And I know Aerokirk ran into this on his build and talked breifly about it...I don't want to run into a fuel starvation issue with the 084 engine from making such a long run so what diameter line would be appropriate for say the said 10ft run ??? Is there any downside to going too big ??? I know from a performance standpoint the delivery line is always a size or two larger than the discharge/pressure side...

Also just to touch on this...I've read where some have increased the fuel line diameter between the fuel pump and the stock carb on the 084 engine and have stated the icing issues have been helped/eliminated by doing so...I might bump up the diameter between the two. Any thoughts on this from the 084 crowd ????

[aerokirk]

I don't think you would have many issues if you limit your line to 10' since you only have a vertical rise of 4' or less. I think most outboard type fuel hoses are 5/16" with a primer bulb which is what I have. I shortened mine to 4' when I had problems with my stock carb but I don't think that was the cause as I believe I had a carb float issue after talking with Papee about it. You can always add an aircraft style electric fuel pump (bendix type) if need be to solve any vapor lock issues if they arise. Those pumps don't take much current to run.

[Papee]

I'm not sure what you'd be gaining. Figure ten feet of line, 3-4 feet of flex to the engine then 2-3 ft to the tank. Wouldn't be much left for hard line and you're adding another connection. My fuel lines are not showing any signs of deterioration after eight years. I just used a few more zip ties.

[Corky]

Here's some of the basic steps I've been using to build the engine stand,platform and eventually the rigging....In this case it's 1/2 inch EMT conduit...First I put index marks on the top and the bottom of the tubing at each end...This keeps my "fishmouth" cuts at the same angle for each end...

[Corky]

I wanted to show the size of the carbide burr I'm using for the cutting duties...It's a big one...I can buzz even the 3/4 inch tubing in short order...

[Corky]

And with some practice you end up with the correct angle needed...In the case with this burr it's just a matter of laying the burr on the tubing at the correct angle and letting it do the work...I found it better to leave the piece a little long and work up to the correct length after the angle has been found for each end..

[Corky]

And if all goes well you end up with a nice, tight joint between the two...This fit makes the welding ceremony easy...And the difficulty level goes up as the gap gets bigger........I've been measuring the main rails on each side and marking them so each side support is in the exact same spot from one side to the other...

[Corky]

And if all goes well you end up with a nice weld...Not too hot to blow holes in the tubing, not too cold to lay the weld on top of the joint...Just right for good penetration and makes the clean-up easy...I'm using a lincoln 110 volt welder with .023 wire...It makes some nice looking welds that I would'nt get using my larger welder...This is a pic before the brush cleaned it up...The galvanize coating does throw some black soot when welding but not enough to say it's interfering with the quality... I wanted to touch on this part of my build while I was in the process and show how I'm doing this ...I'll have some more pics of the main engine stand and platform coming in another day or two...

[aerokirk]

Nice job! The carbide bit really makes the job go faster .... watch those metal slivers though, they're really nasty when you get them into your gloves or shoes. At least your filings will eventually rust away, mine were stainless and I'm still getting an occasional "prick" from them.

[Corky]

I'm trying to fit them together as well as I can...I have to be honest some angles are tough and do have gaps which makes the welding tougher... I leave the heat where it is and adjust the wire feed speed but for the most part the tubes are fitting together nicely.. The slivers are a pain I got my shower last night and still had some in my hair afterwards they fly all over the place...

Good news I found a galvanized loadrite boat trailer and bought that today...This one is 6ft + between the fenders so It'll be perfect for my boat.. I got home late tonight after the title and tag changeover but I'll snap and post some pics tomorrow...

[Corky]

I've been looking for a trailer for a few months...I wanted one that the whole boat will be on the trailer...I did'nt want to leave any hull hanging out the back behind the trailer...So this is what I found...Yeah, it's heavier than needed for a mini but the price was right...15 inch wheels and surge brakes...The brakes work great...I'm getting a little ahead of myself with the trailer buy hey, at least it's here and waiting for me...So anyhow this is what I'm starting with...It's 6 ft wide to the frame rail between the tires !! Plus a few inches more to the fenders...

[Papee]

That's about what my boat is on minus the brakes. Mine isn't quite as wide at 6' total between the fenders. I have old paper ream rollers on mine with bearings in them. Mine rolls a bit too easy but they are what I had. It is nice for plopping the boat on the ground or picking it back up though.

[kent]

Dang, Corky, with that much trailer width, you might as well split that hull down the middle and add another foot !!!! <<<LOL>>> Glad you got it.... All boats need wheels every now and then !!!!!
kent

[Corky]

Hi Kent, at least I'll feel better if I go on a longer trip with it knowing I'm not overloaded......I've seen trailers that have a carpeted guide on the inside of the wheel fenders...Some are straight up and some are angles to help center the boat...I have enough room to add those...I just checked out Papee's thread and did some quick searching...I'm liking the bunk rollers...How many feet of those rollers would a 14ft boat need at the back ??? I see them offered in 1ft increments starting at 4ft and up...I was looking for a trailer with the straight/flat crossmembers but with pulling the roller assemblys of and adding the bunks I think I can actually adjust the bunk height a little better...And I'm not seeing a big setback other than ground clearance for the back crossmember...So far everone hates the hubcaps that sees them!!

[kent]

Corky, I don't believe you need to alter the rollers on the trailer. Looks like you have more than enough to support the hull. I had the same roller count under my 5500 lbs. cruiser and that was fine... but a bit longer frame with tandem axles.... Wait until you have a trial loading.... Maybe all you need to do is loosen the u-bolts on the winch tower and slide it forward a little... Hit them with some wd40 now so they back off easier when the time comes. As to the hubcaps.... pop them off and show us your nuts !!!!
kent
Back in a week... Heading south tomorrow morning to the wife's sister in North Carolina.

[Papee]

I have the 5 ft rollers and 5 ft of slides on that trailer. I put the roller bunks on lined up with the two outside braces on the bottom of the boat.

[Corky]

Thanks Papee...I did entertain the thought of using the trailer's original rollers but I'm not comfortable with the load up that high and I want the supports under the outer braces as Papee has pointed out...The water that this boat is going in most of the time probably won't let the boat get wet at the original height !!!

[Corky]

OK here's what I've come up with for this build...I actually ended up starting over so I could design this with minimal air obstructions....As you can see it's a hybrid of builds from this site...And that's the great thing about this site... You read the material and make up a design that fits your needs and ideas...Its got an integrated operators seat framing instead of the stand-alone design..The front engines mount was redesigned to extend the tubes out even further than my original design....This lines up all the supports front to back so the prop only "sees" one obstruction along that plane instead of the front support tubes making their own obstruction for the air to bend around...

Will this help ??? Mabe,probably, but it makes me feel better knowing I did everything I could to minimise the tubing obstructions for the flowing air...The bottom tubes in front of the seat have'nt been cut to length yet they'll get cut off where needed and as you can see I still use the big angle irons to keep the bottom rails from warping during the welding process...I triangle braced the platform from the operator's seat up to give plenty of support so I can move/flop/dance around without worrying about bending the 1/2 inch rails...

Other than a few key 3/4inch engine stand supports most the tubing is 1/2 inch...

[Corky]

I'm making some progress this weekend here's an update...I fabbed up some brackets made from structural angle steel..They needed to tightly fit over the 3 inch floor channels and in turn got bolted through with some grade 8 hardware...Next the engine stand/platform simply sits on top of the brackets...

[Corky]

Engine gets mated with the stand and the whole assembly gets plumbed up front to back,side to side...I used a piece of wood clamped to the redrive hub and plumbed down at various points to get all the measurements exact...It actually went fairly easy...After that the brackets got welded to the EMT...