Corky's Build

[Corky]

It's that time of year where work is getting in the way of my fun.. But I have made some progress...The engine stand is finished and I'm fabricating the platform..Here's some pics of the engine stand...It's main supports are 3/4 inch EMT and the secondary supports are 1/2 inch EMT...I probably could have used just the 1/2 inch but I wanted more strength for the abrupt stop a rock would give...Using the Circle S reduction unit and the 3 point engine mount system there's not a whole lot of options on what needs to be done...I was'nt comfortable with using just a 2 leg support for the front engine mount like some builds have... So I added the secondary set of supports...

[Corky]

What I did was to keep the front supports " in line" with each other so the incoming prop air has the least amount of deflection around them...Here's a view from directly in front note how the secondary supports disappear behind the main supports...

[Corky]

And the rear engine stand detail showing the standard X bracing...Simple but effective...As stated in the other builds the finished product looks so simple but the designing,measuring,cutting,bending and fishmouthing adds up to some long hours until it's done... I'm using the Lincoln 110 volt migwelder seen in some of the pics for the welding duties...I've got some .023 wire spooled up in it and it's welding very nice...Great penetration and the proper heat setting makes for some easy welding...On a side note I was suprised the galvanized coating is'nt contaminating the welds like I thought it would...

[Doozit20]

Thats a good looking engine stand. Very good looking work in deed. Cant wait to see the rest of this build come together. Keep up the excellent work.

[aerokirk]

Nice job Corky! You definitely won't have to worry about rigidity with that mount structure. Nice symetrical bends. The CRC company makes a Cold Galvanizing Spray in a rattle can if you want to re-galvanize your welds. I've used it with good success in the past on EMT conduit.

What's next on your build schedule?

[dr.peck76]

I really like the overlapping truss design. Very attractive to the eye and strong. I'm sure you already know this but if anyone else is welding galvanized material make sure there is plenty of ventilation and you are wearing a respirator if possible. The fumes from that will make you sick in minutes. I got a bad case of galvanize poisoning when I was a much younger man in the fab shop where I worked. All the welders wore masks but they didn't figure the apprentices needed to. Lol different attitude back then.

Anyway, I can't wait to see it together Corky.

[Corky]

Thanks guys...Next step is to place the engine and see just how close I want to sit to it......Not that the noise level is going to decrease by much but my comfort level might go up the further I place myself away from it...

Speaking of welding the galvanized tubing....I did get myself with the fumes a couple times...And gave myself a big headache in the process....Strangely enough I've read where whole milk is the cure for the symptoms so I drank a bunch and the headache did seem to go away....I've got a fan system for painting but it works too well and draws the shielding gas away from the work so I can only use the ceiling fan at the most with an open bay door... The key is to not stand directly over top the work which can't always be done depending on what I'm doing...

[Corky]

I've got a few questions pertaining to the engine angle relative to the hull and I'm sure this would help others out with their builds also...

I've fabbed up the front engine mount height to keep the engine level{same plane as the hull in other words}...I did this by adding about a quarter inch of thick washers under the front engine mount/rubber isolator...This gives me the ability to lower the front of the engine if need be...

Is that enough of a working range to dial this combo in under "normal" conditions ???

Should the initial settings be set where I have it {same angle relative to the hull} ???

I'm assuming that I run this build and see what the hull is doing...All things being equal and the tank/battery in their final resting place....I've read somewhere that you keep trimming the front of the engine down {raising the bow during plane} until you get the porpoising then take it back up a touch...Is this correct ???

I just want to have all the bases covered with this engine stand and those are the questions that are popping up in my head...thanks guys !!

[Papee]

I set the green boat up level. I chose the same locations for the battery and tank that I'm using on my boat because I knew it worked. The boat would porpoise just a bit at about 25mph. I put in three washer and it stopped. That boat is still pulling the front up a bit but runs good. It's set real good for two people though.

[Doozit20]

I would say yes to make the engine level as a starting point and then move your battery and such around and then finally adjust your engine amgle as needed. And yes id say 1/4" is a good adjustment amount...you can always add to the back to achieve the same effect if you find you need a little more adjusting right??.

[Corky]

OK thanks guys...I'll set it up level with the hull and go from there...

Here's something I've run into while trying to gather the odds and ends needed to fab up the first level of the platform ...

I bought an Attwood quick release and the matching swivel/pedistal for the front seat of the platform..The one that holds the square metal swivel about 1-2 inches high not the pole/pin type like the front deck...The front seat basically will sit on the platform so I can see out over the top of the rider...And I wanted a quick release... But I'm real disappointed in the fit of the two pieces...Both "locked" together I have at least a good 1/2 to 1 inch of slop side to side,front to back....After the purchace I read more into the reviews on various sites and others seem to have the same issue...Yes I can weld/fix the fitment issue but how does Attwood get away with selling that horrible fitting set-up ??? ...

[Corky]

I set the green boat up level. I chose the same locations for the battery and tank that I'm using on my boat because I knew it worked. .

Papee, I can see the tank is basically under the front seat...But I have'nt seen any pics of where the battery ended up on the green boat...Is that under the engine ??? Now that I think about it mabe that boat did'nt get the starter until later correct ??? I've reviewed how Airboat pros as well as most others have put the battery/fuel tank side by side under the engine but with a 14 ft boat we have much more choices as to where these two "heaviest" parts end up going... The shortest battery/starter cables would be the best functionally but mabe that is'nt the best for weight distribution....Care to share what you've found over the years with your builds ????

[Papee]

Keep all the weight you can distributed between you and your passenger seat. The farther front you put the tank the less you have to move the battery forward. My battery sits at the front of the motor. I wouldn't put a battery any more back than that. Think of it as if your boat is balancing on a pipe, if keep the weight in the back more motor adjustment is needed to make the same change in performance. This is why I like a longer boat, you can spread out the weight more and get the boat to run more free.

[aerokirk]

Corky ... regarding the seat issue, I've got the same quick base and also found that the standard swivel is a poor fit so I purchased a swivel with the locking lever which fit almost too tight so I ended up shimming the base between the metal top plate and the plastic bottom section and now it's a really good fit. I think the locking swivel base is slightly bigger in diameter.

I think this is the one I bought but not entirely sure. It's made by Springfield and measures 6 7/8" square. Got it from www.WholesaleMarine.com

[Corky]

Papee , OK I'll place the tank and battery at the positions you've suggested...I'm going to incorporate those locations into my designs and go from there..


Aerokirk, thanks for the info...I was looking at that locking swivel but read some reviews that stated some other brands of swivel{other than attwood} would'nt fit the quick release...I'll try that one I'd rather have the lock anyhow...

[Corky]

I ordered the springfield locking swivel and will be taking the attwood swivel back...That should take care of the front seat....I do have a low profile seat track for my seat I like to move around front and back from time to time and if I need to do some repairs/maintence I can at least slide the seat front without needing to take the whole assembly off like I would need to if it was in a fixed position...I should be all set up now with the seats on the rigging...

[dr.peck76]

Hopefully it dosnt knock the balance of my rig off when the fuel level gets low.

I was concerned about that as well so I mounted it under the engine between the rigging leg. It seems to do well but I wonder if I will end up bow heavy after ridding for a few hours. Haven't had it running long enough to know!! It is kinda big as well (21 gals) and biased to the rear of the COG

[Corky]

I've seen where the two are side by side and it's a popular choice...I'm planning on installing the battery under the front of the engine,centered in the hull...This is my opinion and mabe I've been running heavy equipment too long for an unbiased view but I'm not a big fan of keeping the fuel and battery so close together even with the battery box around it...

The fuel tank is going forward, right behind the front seat...Centered in the hull also....
I bought a 12 gallon tank last year for the build...I was going to get a 6 or 8 gallon but I do want to travel upstream on some fishing trips so I ended up with the 12 gallon...I won't be keeping it anywhere near full most of the time for my short evening fishing trips after work but I still have the ability for the long trip if needed...I found an older,in the box, tank made by Tempo {bought out by Moeller}..The reason I grabbed this one is because it had the old style cap with the screw-in vent...I hate these new "self venting" caps that always seem to have pressure in the tank and occasionally blow up the tank like a balloon...I've swapped out my old cap on the new 6 gallon attwood tank in my other mini so I don't have to use that new cap on that also...

[aerokirk]

I went with a 9 gallon Moeller tank but to be honest, if I had a choice now I would go with the 6 gallon tank instead. The 084 is a real gas miser and I think you could go all day with 6 gallons. I only fill mine to 5 or 6 now to conserve on weight.

[Papee]

I also have the 6 gallon boat tank and never ran short. There is only one time I remember wishing I had more fuel on board. I did at one time have a 10 gallon fuel cell on with gas gauge but the gauge was not reliable enough for me to trust and it was just too much to carry. I generally burn about 3 gallons on my daily trips. I like being able to just lift up my tank to see how heavy it is when I have concern.