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Thread: Corky's Build

  1. #321
    Administrator Papee's Avatar
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    Re: Corky's Build

    Looking good. I put an extinguisher on my boat even though I have the boat tank. Every time I saw a warden they'd ask me where it was. It's much easier just to put one on than explain every time.
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  2. #322
    Super Moderator Corky's Avatar
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    Re: Corky's Build

    Next up is the steering lock...The bellcrank assembly made this easy...This is the overview of what's being used...A simple hinged lock...There's going to be a rubber stop under the arm in the unlocked position{as well as thin strips between the lock tabs} so there's no rattles from vibration and a little give for the lock itself...Now the rudders won't be flapping in the breeze during transport and a quick flip of the lock while unstrapping from the trailer and it's done...
    Attached Images Attached Images   

    Aluminum .120 14' X 76" hull
    Teledyne 4a084-4 engine
    Circle S 1.69:1 reduction
    67" Whirlwind "Razor X" prop



  3. #323
    Super Moderator Corky's Avatar
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    Re: Corky's Build

    Another area of attention is attachments for mooring...I added stainless steel pop-up cleats ...Two reasons, i kill two birds with one stone...Attachments for inflatable bumpers between the dock and boat as well as the mooring rope duties...No real weight added here and they're out of the way when not in use...
    Attached Images Attached Images     

    Aluminum .120 14' X 76" hull
    Teledyne 4a084-4 engine
    Circle S 1.69:1 reduction
    67" Whirlwind "Razor X" prop



  4. #324
    Super Moderator Corky's Avatar
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    Re: Corky's Build

    Next up is the bow navigation light...I've tossed around every aspect of this...From the flush mount side lights to the normal deck mounted units... At first I wanted to go the easy route and use the flush mount side lights...But after investigating how the lights should be seen from the front and sides I quickly realized I really have no way of insuring that the range of sight would be correct viewing from the front to the side angle without interuption {112.5*}...In fact upon further investigation, there would be a significant break{blind spot} in the bow lighting because my boat {or any other hull like mine for that matter} does'nt come to enough of a point...

    To make understanding this a little easier if you view the bow from the front both flush mount lights would be visible ....As you move to the side of the boat the opposite light would quickly be blocked from view...

    I want to be able to have this boat pass any visual/safety test if stopped on the water so the easy way out is a premanufactured bow light that's coast guard approved...

    I ended up with an attwood 2 NM LED bow light...It's a sealed unit that has a 50,000 hour life expectancy and a 10 year warranty
    Attached Images Attached Images  

    Aluminum .120 14' X 76" hull
    Teledyne 4a084-4 engine
    Circle S 1.69:1 reduction
    67" Whirlwind "Razor X" prop



  5. #325
    Super Moderator Corky's Avatar
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    Re: Corky's Build

    With the reasoning and choice of bow nav lighting out of the way comes the next problem...And Kent and I had discussed this a few months ago during the actual build of the hull....I don't really want that bow light mounted on the deck to trip over........Hmmmm......Now, you know I did some thinking and had a few ideas but the one I liked the best was'nt the easiest....And you all should know by now that extra craftsmanship does'nt bother me if I end up with what I want...Here's the pics of where I'm heading with this....It's a flip open door...Flush with the deck when it's closed..Push the one end of the door and it spins on the centerline to reveal the bow light...I used a piece of 3/8 stainless rod and bronze oilite bushings for the axis...
    Attached Images Attached Images     

    Aluminum .120 14' X 76" hull
    Teledyne 4a084-4 engine
    Circle S 1.69:1 reduction
    67" Whirlwind "Razor X" prop



  6. #326
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    Re: Corky's Build

    Corky,
    You sure are thinking outside the box... No toe stubbing with this. I like it. Keep up the good design work.
    kent

  7. #327
    Member krwsr's Avatar
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    Re: Corky's Build

    Quote Originally Posted by kent View Post
    Corky,
    You sure are thinking outside the box... No toe stubbing with this. I like it. Keep up the good design work.
    kent
    Way Cool! You may want to patent that idea! Nice job!
    Project "Swamp Fox"
    Hull: 12' x 6' x 18" All welded aluminum
    Motor: 4A084-4 Continental NOS / Solex 34 Carb
    Direct Drive
    Prop: 57" Ultra-Prop

  8. #328
    Super Moderator Corky's Avatar
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    Re: Corky's Build

    Thanks guys !! I want to post some pics of how the hatch turned out...First pic is all the components of the hatch...I used nylon spacers to hold the hatch centered in the opening..The weight is supported by the oilite brass bushings and as far as I'm concerned is really overkill for the hatch... But hey, I'd rather build it to last...

    I did add a cam lock to the door...It's a flush mount,low profile keyed lock like a vending maching...This serves the purpose of a positive stop keeping the door in the closed position..I have to tell you I've trampled all over this and it's a solid addition to the deck I don't foresee any problems with this hatch...

    Next pic is the hatch flipped to the open position without the nav light attached...

    And the finished product with the LED nav light installed...The light's height is aproximately .5 inches off the deck to assure the light is visible as required...The height adjustment was made with a piece of poly bottom sheeting machined to pull double duty as the light's platform as well as a positive stop at the rear to keep the door from spinning over-center when opened...

    I don't want to blow my own horn here but the hatch works very smoothly with absolutely no slop I'm happy with the way it turned out... The hatch spins perfectly on the center axis and the light does'nt come close to hitting anything when you spin it up...
    Attached Images Attached Images       

    Aluminum .120 14' X 76" hull
    Teledyne 4a084-4 engine
    Circle S 1.69:1 reduction
    67" Whirlwind "Razor X" prop



  9. #329
    Super Moderator Corky's Avatar
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    Re: Corky's Build

    I've finished up the control stick pivot shaft by adding a cap on the end closing off the shaft...Also at the other end I've added some stick gussets to keep everything in check...The control stick feels very sturdy and I feel it's now up to the task without adding any more supports...
    Attached Images Attached Images   

    Aluminum .120 14' X 76" hull
    Teledyne 4a084-4 engine
    Circle S 1.69:1 reduction
    67" Whirlwind "Razor X" prop



  10. #330

    Re: Corky's Build

    Very Slick Corky! Is that bow light battery powered? I don't see any wires……...

  11. #331
    Super Moderator Corky's Avatar
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    Re: Corky's Build

    Good question....The wires come out the bottom of the light...The light's stainless hat comes off to reveal the mounting screw holes and the wiring hole is between those mounting holes...It's the bigger,center hole in the finished hatch pics....Down through the light's base,through the poly spacer and through the hatch{ending up between the top and bottom halves}.. From there they turn and exit the hatch to the top right side very close to the axis rod..I kept it close so as the hatch is spun up the wires don't have a very far sweep{1/2 inch +or-}... So basically the wires are traveling from over top the axis rod to below the axis rod as the hatch is flipped.. The light"s wiring comes with a thick protective sheathing so a little movement is'nt going to cause any problems..

    All the lighting on this build will be LED...I've even got LED bulbs for the instrument panel gauges with a dimmer knob designed for LEDs...I'll cover that when I get to the wiring....I want to keep the battery drainage down as much as possible so I can run the smaller lawn mower size battery without killing it at night..

    I've been debating on trying some LEDs for bow lighting but that may come after I've got it up and running to see how the charging system actually works... You can't really run this river at night without a big hassle avoiding rocks like an obstacle course so I probably would'nt go too far from the house here anyhow...

    Aluminum .120 14' X 76" hull
    Teledyne 4a084-4 engine
    Circle S 1.69:1 reduction
    67" Whirlwind "Razor X" prop



  12. #332

    Re: Corky's Build

    I see. Well thought out, I must say. Looking forward to seeing the finished product……I love to see the attention to detail!

  13. #333
    Super Moderator Corky's Avatar
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    Re: Corky's Build

    I've been contemplating how to add some rod holders..One item that I don't have on my old mini is some type of rod holder...I really don't like the plastic{or metal} style that fastens to the gunnel they get in the way quickly when you need to do something other than just sitting and fishing...But I get tired of babysitting the rods...I'm either laying them across the deck,proping them up against something convenient which usually leads to a tangled mess every so often...

    Here's what I did...I used a length of 2 inch sch40 aluminum tubing and placed it inside the deck gusset...I wanted to add the gussets anyhow to span the distance between the deck and the sidewall upright bracing...The holes in the tubing are for a hitch pin that will act as the rod's bottom stop...Now any rod will fit in the holders and they can be reached by both the front seat and the pedistal deck mounted swivel seat {that still needs to be added}....
    Attached Images Attached Images     

    Aluminum .120 14' X 76" hull
    Teledyne 4a084-4 engine
    Circle S 1.69:1 reduction
    67" Whirlwind "Razor X" prop



  14. #334
    Super Moderator Corky's Avatar
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    Re: Corky's Build

    And, as promised...A pic of how the gunnel P channel will be finished on the front bow...One side down, one to go...
    Attached Images Attached Images   

    Aluminum .120 14' X 76" hull
    Teledyne 4a084-4 engine
    Circle S 1.69:1 reduction
    67" Whirlwind "Razor X" prop



  15. #335
    Super Moderator Corky's Avatar
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    Re: Corky's Build

    OK I'll admit it...I'm lazy when it comes to repetitive motions......I don't want to turn around in the operator's seat every time I need to choke the engine...So with that I bought a good choke cable...
    It's a braided stainless cable sheathing with a clear tubing over that...It also has O rings{2} on the shaft at the knob housing and a rubber seal at the other end of the cable...That should keep any water out of ithe cable {as much as can be kept out}...
    I fabbed up an engine bracket to hold the cable and used the choke solenoid side of the carb shaft to spin the choke closed...That retained the original return spring on the choke shaft...The cable works smoothly and does return to the open position when released...I placed the choke knob under the seat on the right..Out of the way but still an easy grab when sitting in the seat....This allows me to work the ignition switch on the left,pull the choke on the right,and work the throttle pedal all at the same time if need be....Here's the pics...
    Attached Images Attached Images    

    Aluminum .120 14' X 76" hull
    Teledyne 4a084-4 engine
    Circle S 1.69:1 reduction
    67" Whirlwind "Razor X" prop



  16. #336
    Administrator Papee's Avatar
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    Re: Corky's Build

    I still have my choke cable on my boat from when I used the stock carb. I've been thinking about taking the electric choke off the Empi and using the manual choke. I had mine on the dash.
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  17. #337
    Member aerokirk's Avatar
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    Re: Corky's Build

    I'm thinking along the same lines as you Papee. The electric choke on the EMPI stays on too long and it's frustrating to hear the engine chug until the heater coil allows it to open. I think a cable operated choke would be better.
    11'6" Marty Bray Hull
    4A084 Continental
    Circle "S" 1.69:1 Reducer
    67" Whirlwind Razor X Prop
    SS Rigging

  18. #338
    Super Moderator Corky's Avatar
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    Re: Corky's Build

    The choke pull on the dash would be nice with the front,center console like yours Papee but with mine off to the side it seemed awkward to have both the ignition and choke pull together...I was thinking about using a choke solenoid and have the "push to choke" ignition switch only problem with that was looking to the future and the EMPI carb...
    But now seeing where you guys are heading with the EMPI choke mabe I won't need to ditch the choke cable after the conversion...

    On a side note I used an Edelbrock choke cable bracket {part # 1494} and modified it to fit the 084...The choke cable I snagged on Ebay it was only $13.00 I thought that was a great buy for the quality..The seller has a few different lengths available...

    Aluminum .120 14' X 76" hull
    Teledyne 4a084-4 engine
    Circle S 1.69:1 reduction
    67" Whirlwind "Razor X" prop



  19. #339
    Administrator Papee's Avatar
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    Re: Corky's Build

    the center console is the green boat, mine is on the left side. I wouldn't ditch it, looks like aerokirk and I are both contemplating the manual choke on our empis.
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  20. #340
    Member aerokirk's Avatar
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    Re: Corky's Build

    I need to look at my ignition switch to see if it has a "push to choke" capability and if it does, I'll get a solenoid instead of a choke cable. I remember that when I was running with my stock carb I only needed choke for a few seconds on cold starts. It can be adapted to the EMPI without too much modification.
    11'6" Marty Bray Hull
    4A084 Continental
    Circle "S" 1.69:1 Reducer
    67" Whirlwind Razor X Prop
    SS Rigging

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