Pre ride inspections

**Papee** · 09-18-2014, 10:42 PM

Check your boat throughly after you've been working on it. Pay special attention to any work you have done in the engine area. Why do I mention this, well I took my boat out with my uncle in his boat to show him areas to fish.

I got him started and on his way then it was my turn. I started my boat and idled off waiting for the engine to warm up a bit before taking off. Once warm I hit the throttle and was on my way to catch up with him. Then bang and I heard something hit the floor of the boat. The engine started vibrating and I knew right away what happened. I shut down the boat and found a pair of side cutters I had been using to wire a ground lead to the carb.

It it made a pretty good gash in the prop near the hub and splintered a bit. It's bad but I knew it would be ok to run the short run we were going to do so I wrapped it with electrical tape and finished the day. That prop is now a wall hanger, I had to put on my ultra prop to finish out the season.

So be be care and remember to check for tools when you're done working. In my defense, my uncle showed up right as I was putting tools away and I got distracted.

**aerokirk** · 09-19-2014, 06:53 AM

Ahh bummer! I know that sick feeling you get when you hear something hit the prop ... I'm also limping along for the rest of the season after a re-drive bolt hit my prop. I guess that's what keeps propeller manufacturers in business

**Doozit20** · 09-19-2014, 04:03 PM

I had a bolt or something go through my wood prop before I had leading edge put on it. Neadless to say it was sent back and leading edge protection put on it. That being said I dont think any protection will work against a wrench or cutters. Glad your ok papee.

**krwsr** · 09-20-2014, 10:15 AM

Thanks for reminding us about safety Papee; props can be replaced but souls and body parts are hard to come by. It is a statistical fact most aircraft mishaps occur from F. O. D. {foreign object destruction}. When I was getting my A&P in the military; the number one cardinal rule--Account for every tool in your box before you close the lid!!

**txriverrat** · 09-20-2014, 03:20 PM

I have had some stuff go through a prop also

, luckily I have built a bunch of wood props so I could repair it myself.When it hits the prop it will sure make your neck get shorter.
Here is something I do now, every bolt ,is drilled and safety wired ,also any parts that can vibrate loose ,air cleaner lights all are safety wired, my water proof ammo cans are permanently attached for water proof storage ,phones cameras etc in one
tools in the other.
Before cranking the engine I always go through a visual check and if I have a passenger they are told to secure anything that is loose in there pockets.
Ron

**Papee** · 09-20-2014, 05:18 PM

I've built a few props myself but the damage is just at a bad place. It's splintering a pretty good chunk off and would weaken the prop too much by the time I cut into it to replace the damaged area. That and the leading edges are pretty beat because there was no protection on. The bugs at night can really do a number on a prop. I have been thinking about making a mould and making wider blades to use in my Ultra Prop hub.

**Doozit20** · 09-20-2014, 07:45 PM

You can make carbon fiber blades. That would be awesome. The guy we bought dads hull from makes big boy blades. "Water walker props" from what I can tell in the short walk through he gave us was that he uses moulds and bags. He lines the moulds with the carbon finer and then has the bags in the middle filled with air to hold there shape. Very imteresting to say the least.

**Big John** · 09-23-2014, 12:15 AM

Very good idea Papee,
I'm in the Gulf Coast Rescue Squad, we have a 15' Panther with an 0540, it's an old 1976 model. I recently attended an Airboat class and they really preached PRE RIDE INSPECTIONS. Showed us a picture of a 3/8 bolt buried in the cage tubing.
Another tip I learned. The instructor told us we were going to run our boats on dry ground. I told him there's no way the Panther would run on dry ground. I've had it stuck in mud and almost didn't get out. HE TOLD ME TO POLISH THE PROPELLER , I DID. THE NEXT DAY I PUT IT ON THE GROUND AND TO MY AMAZEMENT, IT TOOK OFF LIKE IT'S TAIL WAS ON FIRE.
Thanks
Big John

**aerokirk** · 09-24-2014, 08:12 AM

While trailering the airboat down the highway yesterday I happened to look in my rear view mirror just as I passed a pedestrial walking the shoulder and I saw two objects flying through the air just in front of him. Not knowing what they were I pulled over to check it out and saw him bending down to pick something up. I walked back to him and he handed me the foam ring and chrome top hat to my new carburetor filter. The center hold-down screw had vibrated loose and everything went flying. I was surprised that it happened but very glad it did when I was trailering and not flying full speed down the river where it would have gone through the prop. I will be purchasing a new center bolt and drilling and safety wiring it to the carburetor!

**Papee** · 09-24-2014, 08:50 AM

I just talked Nick out of the chrome filter for the very same reason. He got the KN style like mine. Those filters if like the one I had also use a hose clamp to clamp the filter on at the carb. They don't stay tight at that point also. You may want to look at that. You may be able to cut a few more slots in it to keep it tight.

**aerokirk** · 09-24-2014, 10:50 AM

This filter also clamps onto the carb but the top hat and foam are held in by a center screw. Once it's safety wired it will be totally secure

**krwsr** · 09-29-2014, 10:57 AM

{FYI} In addition to safety wire; we were taught to paint seal all hardware after torqueing.

An inexpensive method to detect vibration loosening. Used in production on compression fittings, studs, nuts, parts, and assemblies after they are in proper torque or position. Inspectors can visually detect any movement or tampering; Torque Seal® becomes brittle and will crack. Excellent adhesion to all metals and to most other surfaces. Dries fast. Available in high visibility, daylight fluorescing colors: ORANGE, RED, LEMON, GREEN, YELLOW-ORANGE, and PINK; and the regular colors: BLACK, WHITE, GRAY, BLUE, BROWN, PURPLE, and YELLOW.