Aside from the rectifier, wiring is done.
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Aside from the rectifier, wiring is done.
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Lord willing Saturday will be her first real world test.
I'm going fishing.
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Looking good bud. Those pipes really quiet down the engine nicely and give enough back pressure to help as well. Hope you get some good fishing in.
Hull:10'6"x69" 1/2 deckover .100
Motor:4a084 w/ stock carb
Reduction:direct drive
Prop:ultraprop 3 blade 59x10*
Mods:Motorcycle exhaust
The good: planes out, runs like a top and hit the 28mph mark.
The bad: ran 20 min and shut it down. Hard to crank but ran good for another 10 min, then shut it down. It took a few seconds to actually die, kept wanting to run. Fired back up and trolled for 5 min then it died. Hard crank, troll 5 min and die repeat this 3 more times. Fired up and ran wide open for 1 mile, lost power, backfired 3 times then "gets better" and runs another mile with no problems. Tried to troll again. Hard crank, troll 5 min and die. Did this 10 times. Fired up and ran 28mph all the way to boat ramp. Took a few seconds to die when turned off. Hard crank, put it on the trailer......fish less.
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There was a tiny amount of white smoke on some of the hard cranks but not all of them. I also had a lot of condensate on the riser I built for the solex carb.
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Are you using a new carb or rebuilt?
Does the carb have the fuel cutoff solenoid?
If you have the cut off do you have the carb grounded correctly?
sounds like a fuel supply problem.
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Rebuilt ( by me)
Solenoid in place and working.
Here is the part where I'm an idiot. I have a kill switch AND a solenoid/choke switch. It had a hard time shutting down because I would only hit the kill switch. Soooo, got that "fixed".
I think I'm flooding or sucking air.
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May be float level I didn't see the white smoke comment. The condensation is normal depending on weather. Just so you don't see ice you'll be fine there. I haven't iced since changing from the stock carb.
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After some investigation I found:
Gas leak on bowl drain plug.
Loose screws on top of carb.
Very loose connection on choke power wire.
Tab on Magnito that I tied the shut off switch to was very loose. It was flopping around and could touch the second tab that is sticking out of the Magnito. If these two touch could it cause a timing issue?
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Bowl drain leaking and loose top screw could be your fuel issue. The loose tab on the back could be both your dying out and your hard kill because. With that tab being loose it could have swung and hit the other tab and killed it and/or with it being loose it could cause it to have faulty connection to kill it.
Oh and im pretty sure it doesnt have anything to do with timing. Thats the gears on the inside. Id try tightening everything up and see if that helps.
Hull:10'6"x69" 1/2 deckover .100
Motor:4a084 w/ stock carb
Reduction:direct drive
Prop:ultraprop 3 blade 59x10*
Mods:Motorcycle exhaust
I'm still losing the fight with my carb but I did but a fish in the boat. It sure would have been some good smoked ribs but it looks like a gator got hold of him. It had lots of nasty teeth marks in it. So I'm a little scared to eat it. Had a good time even if I had to fight my boat the whole time.
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Hi froghunter
That looks like a good sized carp you got today.
Sorry to hear you're still having engine troubles.
Did you put poly on the bottom or did you go with frog spit or the like?
I ask because I figure I'll need poly (running ice to water and back again & repeat) and am curios about what kind of results others are having pushing poly with the 084.
Good luck
Mike
Last edited by Ice King; 05-10-2015 at 03:54 PM.
But you're having fun that's the main thing...Glad to see you're out and about with your boat...I think I'd be waiting on the next fish dinner too...
No poly. I used gator glide and am happy with it so far. I may do ploy in the future and am curious about performance as well.
I hated to throw away such a fat fish but it looked like infection had set in on some of the puncture wounds.
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Due to daily rain and other issues I'm having trouble getting my rig into the vw shop for repairs. I talked to the mechanic today who was very helpful. Assuming it has the correct jets and needle valve in it, he is leaning towards an air leak. The pics I showed him of the spark plugs show signs if running lean. He said with a warm engine and fully opened choke a small air leak could cause the symptoms my motor is showing. I got my spotlight out and did a little redneck csi.
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This is what I found. A small black mark where the tube flange attaches to the engine. I had this brilliant idea that since I disturbed the 25+ year old gaskets that some sealant would be needed. I used the silicone gasket pooky stuff. HOPEFULLY that was a bad idea and was causing air leaks. I did find similar black marks on a second Flange. I removed all the pooky and went back straight gaskets. Maybe that was it......
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I hope you figure out the carb trouble sometimes it's a slow process...I see where you've got the battery and fuel tank in the boat and they're nicely separated I would'nt be afraid of running like that...I can't quite tell from the pic but is that the small battery box for a lawn mower size battery ???
its the smallest deep cycle battery that walmart sells. its larger than the lawn mower batteries but not by much.
OK thanks for the reply...I'll check those out next time I'm in there....
Froghunter One of the ways I've tested for leaky inlets is to spray a little eather around the suspect area when the engine is idling if there is a leak the engine will speed up a bit.
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