SWAMP FOX/krwsr

[Doozit20]

I just noticed that you said your using the 153 tooth flexplate. You may have problems mounting with that setup because of the smaller diameter. Im unsure on that one. Good luck with the fab work. When I was figuring the bracket for my dads setup I literally sat looking at the engine and holding the flywheel and starter in place and scratching my head for a week before I finally came up with something that would, at the time hopefully work.

[Papee]

Yes I may be wrong again but I think Salty Texan was using a different motor?

[Doozit20]

He mounted the starter facing forwards on the 084 using the 168 tooth flexplate but I believe he used an outboard starter from a mercury or something like that. I think pics are on page two of my build thread "doozits second"

[Papee]

Ok didn't remember. With that number of teeth it would most likely take an eleven tooth starter. As Dooz said, I wouldn't do anything more until you check the starter rotation. If its just a nornal Chevy starter it will rotate the wrong way, it will turn clockwise.

[krwsr]

Unfortunately you are correct, and thanks for the observation! When I was researching this, I swore it said CCW. Guess what, it is CW; now I have to try and send it back. What a pain in the butt this has turned out to be. Man do I feel stupid! I went back and checked the entry on Doozit Second {Salty Techson's setup}, and the Mercruser starter will make it easier to mount, but I was trying to use a less expensive starter. It says it is a 9 tooth gear; what I do not know at this point will it work on the 153 flex plate. It doesn't say how many teeth it has and I do not know the formula to figure it out.
Your thoughts???

[Corky]

The 153 and 168 chevy flexplates have the same pitch teeth so you're safe there...If you look closely at some of the automotive mini starters available there's two bolt patterns moving the starter closer or farther away but as you've found out the standard chevy starter rotates the wrong direction in the configuration you're trying to install it in this application...

[Doozit20]

Im not sure how that whole starter tooth/pinion figuring works. I did manage to get a starter on my yellow boat as well though. What I used was a rotax flywheel/ring gear off a seadoo and mounted it to the rope pulley. I then used a harley starter. I simply took the gears and put them together and literally ran the starter along the ring gear like a train track lol. They lined up good enough for me so i moved forward. Now the harley starter spins the same direction as a chevy starter so what I did is simply mount the starter aiming backwards but sticking out in front of the engine. Much like how a mag is on some bigger aircraft engines. Not cosmetically pleasing but I was after functionality rather then looks. And it works great.

long story short...theres more then one way to skin a cat. So personally I would try and figure a way to use what you have if possible. A thing to note is the fact that the ring gear im using is a little bigger then the rope start pulley and it has plenty of spin for the engine to crank.

[Papee]

The 153 and 168 chevy flexplates have the same pitch teeth so you're safe there...If you look closely at some of the automotive mini starters available there's two bolt patterns moving the starter closer or farther away but as you've found out the standard chevy starter rotates the wrong direction in the configuration you're trying to install it in this application...

If you have the same size flywheel and more teeth something has to be different. If the cut is the same that would mean that the spacing is closer on the one with more teeth. If this is true it would take a starter that the teeth were closer most likely needing a 11 tooth starter. Just a guess without all the info of course. This whole deal had my head spinning when researching it. I was on this mission for a week straight trying to figure out the best solution that was both inexpensive and easy enough to do that someone with minimal tools can do.

[Doozit20]

I think the 153 has a smaller diameter then the 168. I also think there are two different starters or as you say a different pinion gear on the starter. When I did mine I did a lot of research on diameters and such to get close enough to the stock flywheel. I figured if it works for the stock one then I gota be able to fit the the other one. I have a pic of the harley setup im using but my phone isnt allowing me to upload it to photobucket or maybe its photo bucket. I can text it to you if you like to have a look kenneth.

[Doozit20]

[Doozit20]

There it is. Tried out tapatalk for the first time..worked pretty good

[Corky]

[QUOTE=Doozit20;31325]I think the 153 has a smaller diameter then the 168.QUOTE] Correct the 153 has a 12.81 diameter and the 168 has a 14.09 diameter...And up to 1985 the flexplates are neutral balance...1986 and up engines used the same flexplate but a counterweight was added for the "new" engines that were externally balanced...So if you by chance got an 86-up flexplate you'd need to remove the weight to run it on the 084...

[krwsr]

Hey, thanks for the info! Once I get past the starter and carb, conversion; I think the rest will be easier.
Thanks Doozit for the photo, it is a big help to see the application.
I am supper impressed with the work Papee & aerokirk has done with the Solex carb. Great innovation!

[Doozit20]

You may be able to build some brackets to come out the front for that chevy starter and flexplate but I dont know for sure. Just have to hold things in place and see how and if it works for you.

[krwsr]

I have put my starter project on temporary hold so I can do a little more Head Banging before I proceed, and got back on my intake and carburetor project. As Papee suggested, I opened up the intake a lot more, and polished it out. Not having a TIG welder, I solicited the aid of my good friend JT Nettle at Nettle Props; Austin's finest TIG welder. JT is incredibly good and fast! He had my weldment completed in less than twenty minutes "flawlessly", while also plugging the end of the intake using only filler rod in just over three minutes. As you can see, his skills are incredible to say the least. Anyone needing professional quality TIG welding, JT can "Getter Done" as we rednecks say in the South.

After visiting with some of my old early 70's Dune Buggy and VW Beatle hot rod enthusiast, they suggested I use a riser setup with the Solex. They said it would give a much better fuel mixture, and top end performance. I am going to give it a try, and see what happens; I can always make it shorter if I need to.

Side Note: {for those who might want to know} A High Frequency TIG welding machine using thoriated tungsten will make a superior weld with aluminum. I am sure txriverrat will agree with me on this.

[krwsr]

As I stated earlier, I purchased a pre-owned Solex from E-bay. While letting is soak, I began on my rudders. By the way, you have heard, I'm sure, {Don't knock it until you have tried it}. Carburetor cleaners are expensive and use some very harsh chemicals. I am using "Pine Sol" cleaner to soak my carb so I can break it down for inspection. You might be amazed at the results.

Using Chuck's suggested dimensions, 36" X 20" X 1 3/4", I hand formed the rudders. Not having a "Wind Tunnel" to check it with {LOL}, I liked how they looked, and made a template for the foam inter core. I am using the pink, 1" insulation sheets, which are extremely light weight and dense. At this point I am guessing where the pivot point needs to be. I am thinking 1/3rd back from the leading edge.
Your thoughts!

[aerokirk]

Looks like you're off to a good start Kenneth ... I would recommend the pivot point be about 4" to 6" back from the leading edge, no further back or you may have some unwanted aerodynamic forces that you'll feel on your stick. JMO

[krwsr]

Good guess! I have mine set at this moment at 6". "Great Minds" think a like! I felt this distance would give me easier control.
Buy the way, I know you used hot wire to cut your foam; I am using my saber saw and it takes me about two minutes per panel. I experimented with some different glues; I started with the 3M marine spray adhesive, but it melted the heck out of it. I have found that Gorilla Glue works the best for this application.

[Doozit20]

Guy did a great job on that intake. Question though, how do you mount the carb with the 4 mounting bolts? Is there an adapter plate? Also like those rudders. Very similar to aerokirks from what I can tell. How thick of aluminum did you use to make them?

[krwsr]

Yeah Doozit, Mr. JT Nettle has incredible talent, and he loves boats to boot. You just have to look at his welds to appreciate it; they are as smooth as a baby's butt with no imperfections. The Solex I am playing with is a older design made with the riser and four bolt mounting. This carburetor was a notorious upgrade for the VW Beatle, so says my old Dune Buggy buddies. As soon as I get my starter worked out, I will give a report on the carburetor after getting it fired up again.

Part of my rudder design did come from aerokirk and some from buster. I am using a one piece design and using a foam core. I think I am going to seal weld it, not using any type of hardware. The material thickness is .030, very thin. With the foam core, it should make it solid as a rock.