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Thread: aerokirk's build

  1. #41
    Member aerokirk's Avatar
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    Re: aerokirk's build

    Yes, I'm using a MIG welder since I don't have a TIG welder. I am using 308L wire to weld stainless to stainless. If you're welding stainless to miid steel you would use 309L wire. Normally you would use a tri-mix gas to weld stainless (argon/helium/co2) but this gas has become very expensive so I'm using a new gas that PraxAir handles which is much cheaper (argon/nitrogen/co2) which they call STARGON

    I decided on using stainless since I would need to use much larger aluminum to achieve the same stength and the cost savings weren't all that great. I also have an easier time welding stainless than aluminum.
    Here are some good articles on the topic:
    http://www.lincolnelectric.com/en-us...t-welders.aspx
    http://www.lincolnelectric.com/en-us...al-detail.aspx
    http://www.praxair.com/~/media/North...S%20P8785.ashx
    11'6" Marty Bray Hull
    4A084 Continental
    Circle "S" 1.69:1 Reducer
    67" Whirlwind Razor X Prop
    SS Rigging

  2. #42

    Re: aerokirk's build

    Great info Aerokirk! Many thanks. You using .030 diameter wire?

  3. #43
    Member aerokirk's Avatar
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    Re: aerokirk's build

    Yes .030
    11'6" Marty Bray Hull
    4A084 Continental
    Circle "S" 1.69:1 Reducer
    67" Whirlwind Razor X Prop
    SS Rigging

  4. #44
    Junior Member Doozit20's Avatar
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    Re: aerokirk's build

    How's the progress coming along??
    Hull:10'6"x69" 1/2 deckover .100
    Motor:4a084 w/ stock carb
    Reduction:direct drive
    Prop:ultraprop 3 blade 59x10*
    Mods:Motorcycle exhaust

  5. #45
    Member aerokirk's Avatar
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    Re: aerokirk's build

    Well, here's the thing ... I had the engine mounts welded up and the engine in place but after standing back and looking at it I decided that my plan of leaving 5" of vertical clearance from the prop tip to the top of the transom was not such a great idea. I figured that maybe the center of thrust was too high and the top of the cage would need to be higher also, so I cut off the back engine mounts completely and shortened them and then bent the front tubes down and re-welded the front mount. I'm much happier with the look now and just finished the welding today. It has been ridiculously cold here lately and we've actually gotten two more snow storms so I haven't been able to do much. I did however, get my engine cleaned and painted and machined a cover plate for the governor opening. I also got the deck plate installed along with the front seat quick release mount so I guess I'm making progress.
    Attached Images Attached Images      
    11'6" Marty Bray Hull
    4A084 Continental
    Circle "S" 1.69:1 Reducer
    67" Whirlwind Razor X Prop
    SS Rigging

  6. #46
    Junior Member Doozit20's Avatar
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    Re: aerokirk's build

    Yeah that does look a little high. I think typically on an open hull your prop tip can be a few inches below the transom as I think the last few inches of your prop dont make that much thrust if any. On my dads boat I have a decked hull as you know and im about 4 inches above the deck and about the same at the top. The boat is 7' wide so obviously theres more side clearance. Oh sorry thats clearance numbers for my 59" ultra prop. I made this clearance mainly because if I run across larger motor itll give me the option to swing a larger prop without haveing to build a new cage.
    I really like the idea of the quick release front seat you have. Is that a store bought deal or homemade? We are at the point now on pops build that we might add a second seat or just leave the one and haveing the quick release would be a great idea.
    Hull:10'6"x69" 1/2 deckover .100
    Motor:4a084 w/ stock carb
    Reduction:direct drive
    Prop:ultraprop 3 blade 59x10*
    Mods:Motorcycle exhaust

  7. #47

    Re: aerokirk's build

    Aerokirk, I'm entertaining moving to a belt reduction for my 084 project and am trying to figure out which prop would be best for my application. What made you go with the prop that you chose over say an Ivo?

  8. #48
    Member aerokirk's Avatar
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    Re: aerokirk's build

    I had talked with Chuck (Airboat Pros) who recommended the IVO however I decided on the Whirlwind based on the assumption that a longer, two bladed prop would be a bettter match for my application. I also own a piper comanche aircraft and have a constant speed prop which is very efficient (blades rotate in hub to produce different pitches). I'm just not convinced that the IVO approach to blade twisting is as efficient. I did a lot of research on posts from other airboaters and LSA pilots and found that many had complained of their IVO's for one reason or another, many complaining that they "run out of push" at a certain rpm. The whirlwind owners seemed much happier with the product and service. The whirlwind also has a wider blade width which should give it better thrust and hopefully be a little quieter. Patti from whirlwind also extended the warranty period for me since I bought it in early spring and wouldn't have it in service till sometime this summer. She also offered to exchange it for a three bladed model if I need more performance (with the 084 engine there's a question as to just how much horsepower can be achieved by carb variations, etc).

    Hope that helps!
    11'6" Marty Bray Hull
    4A084 Continental
    Circle "S" 1.69:1 Reducer
    67" Whirlwind Razor X Prop
    SS Rigging

  9. #49

    Re: aerokirk's build

    great info my man! many thanks. I think you have me sold. What was the out the door cost like on the WW prop?

  10. #50
    Member aerokirk's Avatar
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    Re: aerokirk's build

    The 67" Razor-X prop was $780 plus $30 shipping to my door (U.P. of Michigan). Patti is the person to talk to ... tell her I said "Hi"
    11'6" Marty Bray Hull
    4A084 Continental
    Circle "S" 1.69:1 Reducer
    67" Whirlwind Razor X Prop
    SS Rigging

  11. #51
    Member aerokirk's Avatar
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    Re: aerokirk's build

    Good progress today! I got the cage all tack welded together and I'm pleased with the way it came together. Spent the whole day measuring, cutting, fish mouthing and welding. Tomorrow I'll weld it solid and start with the 1/8" wire. So far, I've gone through 160' of 1/2" stainless tubing, 12' of 5/8" tubing and 12' of 1" stainless square tubing. I'll need about another 20' of 5/8 tubing to make the rudder framework. I discovered that the 1/2" tubing fits perfectly inside the 5/8" tubing so I welded two 2"L lengths of the 5/8" tubing onto the main frame so that the cage can slide into them, thereby securing it to the main framework. I'll drill through them and install a 1/4" stainless bolt to hold the front of the cage firmly. This should make the cage easily removable.

    I managed to turn my garage into a torture chamber though by cutting the fish mouths with a 1/2" carbide burr on a high speed grinder. The result is a million tiny stainless steel slivers all over everything. I think I pulled out at least a dozen of them from my body so far ... being stainless, they'll never rust away so I'll have to thoroughly vacuum my garage when I'm done.
    Attached Images Attached Images      
    11'6" Marty Bray Hull
    4A084 Continental
    Circle "S" 1.69:1 Reducer
    67" Whirlwind Razor X Prop
    SS Rigging

  12. #52

    Re: aerokirk's build

    very nice!

  13. #53
    Junior Member Doozit20's Avatar
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    Re: aerokirk's build

    Nicely done. Pretty soon you can crank her up. Just be sure to have it hooked to a truck with the break on lol
    Hull:10'6"x69" 1/2 deckover .100
    Motor:4a084 w/ stock carb
    Reduction:direct drive
    Prop:ultraprop 3 blade 59x10*
    Mods:Motorcycle exhaust

  14. #54

    Re: aerokirk's build

    any updates??

  15. #55
    Member aerokirk's Avatar
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    Re: aerokirk's build

    My shop air compressor broke down and had to order new parts. It has also been cold and snowing here for three days so I haven't had the desire to work on it. My parts arrived yesterday so I will resume construction tomorrow (weather permitting). Next step is to weld 1/8" SS wire to cage. I also ordered my gas pedal and throttle parts and will order gauges, tank and steering components soon. Got the 2024T3 aluminum sheet for rudders and need to get them formed into airfoil shape and welded.
    11'6" Marty Bray Hull
    4A084 Continental
    Circle "S" 1.69:1 Reducer
    67" Whirlwind Razor X Prop
    SS Rigging

  16. #56
    Member aerokirk's Avatar
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    Re: aerokirk's build

    More progress today ... got about 3/4 of the SS wire welded onto the cage, what a pain in the a$$ !!! Discovered that I'll be short a few pieces of SS so I'll have to reorder more wire and tubing. Received some of my parts, i.e. gas pedal, throttle cable, fittings and rudder bushings. Ordered my gauges, gas tank and switch panel which should arrive at the end of the week. Installed my sump pump, now I'll have to start building my rudders. My wife has been helping me with the build which has really moved things along as many of the tasks require two sets of hands. Based on what I've read, I'll also need to purchase a magneto signal converter in order for the electric tachometer to work. Has anyone had experience with this problem? My understanding is that the P-lead does not put out a signal that the tach can read. Opinions welcome
    Attached Images Attached Images     
    11'6" Marty Bray Hull
    4A084 Continental
    Circle "S" 1.69:1 Reducer
    67" Whirlwind Razor X Prop
    SS Rigging

  17. #57
    Junior Member Doozit20's Avatar
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    Re: aerokirk's build

    Thats looking great. That wire is deffinately the most time consuming part. I went with the 2x4 wire mesh which is a little quicker because you dont have to weld each joint. I wanted to do it like yours but dad said he wanted the other so he wins . As far as tach go I use a faria outboard tach. You hook the signal wire to the P lead and positive and negative and it works good. I found mine is about 150-200 rpm faster then what my prop is spinning but it works. If you youtube my videos I have one that is labeled 4a084 spin up or something like that and you can see the tach. Found this on ebay. http://m.ebay.com/itm/380596468660?nav=SEARCH look around and you can find deals. You just set the back knob to 4cylinder. I think there's a thread on here for this as well.

    Keep up the good work
    steve
    Hull:10'6"x69" 1/2 deckover .100
    Motor:4a084 w/ stock carb
    Reduction:direct drive
    Prop:ultraprop 3 blade 59x10*
    Mods:Motorcycle exhaust

  18. #58
    Member aerokirk's Avatar
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    Re: aerokirk's build

    I finished my cage wiring during the holiday weekend and just received my 9 gallon gas tank, gauges and switch panel. Tonight I cut the holes in my instrument panel and installed the Faria gauges & Seasense switch panel. I have space for one more 2" instrument and I'm debating whether or not to add a CHT gauge. Starting work on the exhaust system and I think I've decided to do two, two into one headers instead of trying to fabricate a four into one. I'm going to take Chuck's advise and go with two IH-1 mufflers from Tractor Supply. I couldn't get the 1 1/4" stainless tube locally so we had to go to Green Bay, WI (150 miles one way) to get the correct size. I also picked up some aluminum angle for the gas tank/battery supports while we were there. I have a CDI rectifier coming this week along with two arguro bearings and teleflex steering cable. This should just about complete the major components (whew ..)
    Attached Images Attached Images  
    11'6" Marty Bray Hull
    4A084 Continental
    Circle "S" 1.69:1 Reducer
    67" Whirlwind Razor X Prop
    SS Rigging

  19. #59
    Member aerokirk's Avatar
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    Re: aerokirk's build

    I'm working on the rudders now ... 0.025" 2024T3 skin with 1/8"x2"x1" aluminum channel as the main spar. Hot wired polystyrene foam to form airfoil filler and 1/4" T6061 for end caps. Welded 1/16" aluminum channel to end caps to allow for riveting of skin to end caps. I'm using standard 3/8" x 5/8" nylon bushings for pivots.
    Attached Images Attached Images      
    11'6" Marty Bray Hull
    4A084 Continental
    Circle "S" 1.69:1 Reducer
    67" Whirlwind Razor X Prop
    SS Rigging

  20. #60
    Member aewrigh's Avatar
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    Re: aerokirk's build

    Man that thing looks great. You do great work. I purchased the faria tach as well as a faria 4 in 1 gauge for everything else. It is the same size as the tach. I should be able to get away with a very small control box.

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