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Thread: Project The Tank II (The Frog)

  1. #41
    Junior Member Doozit20's Avatar
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    Re: Project The Tank II

    Papee that boat looks great. Did you get a total estimate weight of everything yet? Keep up the great job on the new boat papee.
    Steve
    Hull:10'6"x69" 1/2 deckover .100
    Motor:4a084 w/ stock carb
    Reduction:direct drive
    Prop:ultraprop 3 blade 59x10*
    Mods:Motorcycle exhaust

  2. #42
    Administrator Papee's Avatar
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    Re: Project The Tank II

    I didn't get the whole boat weighed because it is not done yet but the hull weighs 236lbs.
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  3. #43
    Junior Member Doozit20's Avatar
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    Re: Project The Tank II

    That's not bad because my hull I think weighed 210 and its only 10'6" long. On a different note Im having trouble with my carb kind of hesitating at about 1/4 throttle where the motor would die if I tried to push it down quick. I have to hold the throttle there for a second or two then it would catch up and I can go again. I tried a different carb setup with no success. Too big. So I just went ahead and ordered a new old stock one. Hope it works better.
    Steve
    Hull:10'6"x69" 1/2 deckover .100
    Motor:4a084 w/ stock carb
    Reduction:direct drive
    Prop:ultraprop 3 blade 59x10*
    Mods:Motorcycle exhaust

  4. #44
    Administrator Papee's Avatar
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    Re: Project The Tank II

    It won't work any better, these engines were made to run a constant 3600 RPM so the carbs aren't the best and weren't designed for the changing RPMs. What is happening is it is stumbling when it goes off the idle jet and to the main. Mine does it and has always done it with three or four new carbs on(stock). Have you drilled the metering rod? That seems to help some but it is still there, I just learned to work around it, binging the rpms up just past that spot before I nail the throttle. I am working on a new intake now that uses 2 army surplus carbs that have accelerator pumps on and are much better carbs. What I am doing is making two intakes,one for each side that will replace your stock intake at the rubber connectors. You just take the middle of the stock intake off at those rubber connectors and put these in place. They are not like any of the single intakes you have seen with the square plentum built on, they are tubing bent and welded to allow proper flow and not have places to trap the gases like others I've seen. I am working on the prototype now but it won't be tested until spring and it warms up here again good enough so I can give it a good test before I start offering them. The price will be around $200 but that will include the intake, carbs, fuel lines, and linkage, everything you need to hook it up. Of course you can just buy the intake alone but it will only fit the carbs I have it designed for which are a perfect match for the motor.
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  5. #45
    Junior Member Doozit20's Avatar
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    Re: Project The Tank II

    Mine was fine qhen I was first running it and I didn't change anything except for the air flow needle on the top of the carb but that was just screwing it in or out a little at atime qhich was fine for a while but then I was running and it seemed to act up when I would slow down then try and speed back up. I have an outboard motor carb that I'm going to put on just for kicks while I wait foe my other carb because if I measured right the mounting holes and intake holes are almost identical so it won't hurt anything just to mount it up and give it a go. Ill post a pic of the carb I mounted on it that didn't work at all and then see what rhe other does if anything. Leme know when you have pics and results of that carb setup it sounds interesting.
    Steve

    Ps ill start a different post about the carb so it doesn't take away from your build here. I'm sorry for doing that btw
    Hull:10'6"x69" 1/2 deckover .100
    Motor:4a084 w/ stock carb
    Reduction:direct drive
    Prop:ultraprop 3 blade 59x10*
    Mods:Motorcycle exhaust

  6. #46
    Junior Member Doozit20's Avatar
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    Re: Project The Tank II

    Hey papee how much was your hub and prob? And materials?
    Hull:10'6"x69" 1/2 deckover .100
    Motor:4a084 w/ stock carb
    Reduction:direct drive
    Prop:ultraprop 3 blade 59x10*
    Mods:Motorcycle exhaust

  7. #47
    Administrator Papee's Avatar
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    Re: Project The Tank II

    The prop was $376 with leading edge tape I think and the hub was $120. I'll have to check again. If you get your prop from Arrow let me know and I'll get the model number off mine. The last one I got for this new boat is a narrower prop and designed a little different than the one on my boat. The one on my boat is noticeably better both on top end speed and getting out of the water. Materials were probably right at $1000 for the sheet goods, angle, and structural channel.
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  8. #48
    Junior Member Doozit20's Avatar
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    Re: Project The Tank II

    Hey Papee thanks for getting back to me. The only thing that bothers me is that I think my bolt pattern is the rotax pattern at I think 75mm, ill have to re measure. The prop I have now gets up and goes if I step on it then can back down and cruise. Its hard to buy a wood prop because if it doesnt perform the way you're expecting you can't change it. What length and pitch are you swinging on your rig now?
    Steve
    Hull:10'6"x69" 1/2 deckover .100
    Motor:4a084 w/ stock carb
    Reduction:direct drive
    Prop:ultraprop 3 blade 59x10*
    Mods:Motorcycle exhaust

  9. #49
    Administrator Papee's Avatar
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    Re: Project The Tank II

    I'm running a 52x24 wide blade from Arrow Props. Pattern is not a problem just tell him what you want it drilled for when you order it. I like the ultra prop but mine just seems to run out of push before I run out of RPMs. The Ultra Prop was my first prop and I've had three of them. I tried everything with them, longer blades with less pitch, shorter blades with more pitch and everything in between. I took my saw and a whole bag of every pitch block out on the river until I ended up with a 48" prop. I just prefer the Arrow prop but it has to be the right prop design also.
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  10. #50
    Junior Member Doozit20's Avatar
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    Re: Project The Tank II

    I'm running the ultra prop full length at 10 degree pitch and when I talked to the guy at competitionaircraft he said these motors are right at 45 hp because of the prop I'm spinning and the rpm I'm able to hold it at. I guess ill give arrow prop a call in a few days and let him know what I'm running now and see what he thinks will be a good match. I'm just worried about forking out the money and then it not be a good match but then again they are in the business of props so they should know what they are talking about lol. So ill ask about the wide prop?
    Steve
    Hull:10'6"x69" 1/2 deckover .100
    Motor:4a084 w/ stock carb
    Reduction:direct drive
    Prop:ultraprop 3 blade 59x10*
    Mods:Motorcycle exhaust

  11. #51
    Administrator Papee's Avatar
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    Re: Project The Tank II

    While it's cold here(in the teens lately) I've been working on his trailer. He had an old snowmobile trailer and decided to use it for the boat. I tore off the plywood deck and got started. I added 3 ft to the back of the frame and moved the axles back. Man was this thing a rust bucket, if I weren't so far into it I would just use the axles and start over.

    I was sitting on part of the frame when I was welding and it cracked! The tongue was also bent up about eight inches, I added some tubing beside the main rail and ran it back the frame more to sturdy it up and get it back to where it should be. I found I nice set of roller bunks online at 5 ft long, I'll be using them in the back with a 2x4 slide bunk in the front. That should make it easy to push off by just lifting on the front a bit. When pulling it onto the trailer the slide bunks should keep it in place. My trailer has all rollers on it and if you drive it on it will just roll back off, this should be a better setup.
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  12. #52
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    Re: Project The Tank II

    hey papee what wire did you run with in your spool runner I bought the same gun and am ready to start some test welds

  13. #53
    Administrator Papee's Avatar
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    Re: Project The Tank II

    I run 030 and use 035 tips, get lots of tips they are cheap and you will go through a few until you get use to it. They can be cleaned sometimes but when I'm welding I just put a clean tip on and clean them up later if they are cleanable.
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  14. #54
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    Re: Project The Tank II

    what wire did you use 4043 or 5356 I might get some of the maxel 4943 and try it they said it flows good like 4043 but a stronger weld I was advised 4043 by my weld shop but I have concern the pounding my boat will get on ice

  15. #55
    Administrator Papee's Avatar
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    Re: Project The Tank II

    I'm using Hyperglide ER4043
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  16. #56
    Administrator Papee's Avatar
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    Re: Project The Tank II

    I'm Back on this project again, I got the Gator Glide on it yesterday and got some of the hull and rigging painted today. I'll post some progress photos tomorrow.

    Some of the photos are showing up sideways ill fix them when I get to a computer.
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  17. #57
    Administrator Papee's Avatar
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    Re: Project The Tank II

    I still haven't had time to get photos uploaded but I'm making progress. By the time I get done in the garage, get cleaned up and do my other assigned duties I'm too wiped out to sit down at the computer.

    I did get everything painted but still need to get a second coat on the inside of the hull. Having an attached garage I have to quit painting a few hours before the wife gets home so the garage airs out to keep the peace.

    I have been taking photos and will get them up ASAP. Tomorrow I will paint the inside of the hull second coat then have a break for a couple days while the paint cures so I don't mar it up crawling around in it too soon. I can still get some of the dash wiring done on the rigging while I wait. I should have this thing on the water within a week. It will not have the starter setup on it right away, I want to get him some water time in while I get the parts together. I will be using the rope pulley end, flywheel setup with the reverse rotation starter. I still need to send the part off to get rewound for the charging. I'm going to get a few of them so his boat is not down while I have it rewound.

  18. #58
    Administrator Papee's Avatar
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    Re: Project The Tank II

    Lets see if this works, using my phone and have a few photos on it. I don't have tapatalk on this phone yet. It sure is green.
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  19. #59
    Junior Member Doozit20's Avatar
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    Re: Project The Tank II

    Hey papee, did you weld your engine stand together or braze it? hat size /type pipe did you use and also how much does it weigh? Of course Im tossing around building another hull and am aiming for supper lightweight one.
    Hull:10'6"x69" 1/2 deckover .100
    Motor:4a084 w/ stock carb
    Reduction:direct drive
    Prop:ultraprop 3 blade 59x10*
    Mods:Motorcycle exhaust

  20. #60
    Administrator Papee's Avatar
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    I'll have to catch up on the photos as I have time, I've been busier than a retired guy should be. The boat is on the water registered and ready to catch fish. I still have a little work to the trailer to do and the charge wiring is giving me fits because I can't find any diagram for the pinouts for the rectifier I got on eBay


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