aewrigh's build

[aewrigh]

Circle S MFG

I agree completely, what one likes someone else may not like. It's your boat build it the way you want. As far as the main hoop, I forget what engine you are using but on mine I positioned the hoop so the front pulley stuck out just in case I had to wrap a rope and start it by hand which came in handy because my starter/gen gave out and I'm starting mine by hand now until I get a new setup figured out. Who is making your reduction drive?

[aerokirk]

Anxiously awaiting pictures of that Circle S drive! Hope it's worth the wait for you ....

[aewrigh]

Got the drive unit in. I am sure apprehensive about building my rigging to the engine though. My hull is not making it easy on me being that the stringers run crossways instead of the length of the boat. I have my boat in a shop with a steel welder only and could really use an aluminum welder to add another crossmember towards the transom. I will figure it out though. That reduction drive is HEAVY. I am worried about making the rigging strong enough to hold the weight plus the amount of abuse the thrust will have on it. I will attach some pics. Any advice, ideas, or tips will be greatly appreciated.

[aewrigh]

More pics of the drive:

[aewrigh]

Sorry about the sideways pics. I'm in my mobile device so feel free to fix them someone if you wish.

[Papee]

Fixed them for you.

That setup will be fine, just make a bottom hoop that lays across all the stringers and build your rigging off that. Put a hoop on bothe your engine stand and you seat rigging. You should check out how I did mine, I welded tabs on the main hoop and bolted the braces from the cage to the hoop so the cage can be taken off separate from the seat rigging and stand.

The best view of the tabs and how I did it is on the video in this post. http://miniairboatassoc.com/forum/sh...ll=1#post30201

[aerokirk]

Wow ... that really looks like a bullet proof drive! I'm assuming that it must weigh about 50# or more with the starter attached, do you think? I also noticed what I think to be an adjustable idler pulley on it ... is that something new? I don't remember seeing one on the prototype. Looks like it's full speed ahead for you

[Doozit20]

Hi Aewrigh. First iff that is one great looking reduction drive you have there. Looks like its built to ne bullet proof lol. I read earlier on in your thread that you were going to get your stator rewound to possibly produce more charging power. I was just wondering how that went and if you have any amperage numbers off of it yet?
Regards Steve

[aewrigh]

I did have it rewound. Look in your other thread as I replied just now. I haven't reinstalled it on my motor yet so no numbers yet.

[Doozit20]

I was just looking through your pictures and may I suggest giving yourself easy access to get to your carb and such just encase you ever find the need to switch carb setup. I have two access doors that I made in mine so that I can rope start it then just close the door to protect things from going back in the prop. Just a suggestion that's all. I see you just have things mocked up right now which is smart. Also when I built my stand I went ahead and built it out of 1" box tubing and angle on the top to act as a cradle to hook the motor to. I used different mounting then others as well. I didn't have the stock mount so I made engine mounts using angle bolted to the front sides and the back of the engine an then dropped the engine into the cradle I made and used rubber mounts with bolts through them to bolt it together. Its a little heavy I think my stand alone weighed 35# but of all the components on the boat, that is one Id rather over build, to as you say take up the force of the prop and with you having a reduction drive you are going to be able to acquire more thrust then I will being direct drive. Again a lot of builders simply use 3/4 conduit i think and when built right with angles and bracing I feel they are strong enough and the proof of that is riding around all over the place. In fact if/when I build another boat I will more then likely build a stand using that technique as to hopefully keep the weight down.

Steve

[aewrigh]

Thanks Doozit20, I had already thought about adding access panels. I haven't had any time to work on my boat lately but I hope to soon. I am afraid I am going to take everything off, take my boat up to work where I have a welder that will do aluminum and add another crossmember.

[Doozit20]

Why do you feel you need an extra cross brace and where are you planning on putting it?

[aewrigh]

If you look, it's hard to tell in the pic, the crossmember closest to the transom is not far enough back to have supports going straight up to the the rear motor mounts.

[Doozit20]

Oh ok gotcha. Im used to mounting to the stringers or on the deckover part. But the cross member would be just as strong I think...

[aewrigh]

It's been forever and my boat has been sitting with nothing getting done. Just had a 24x30 shop built at my house so the boat will be coming home tomorrow. I'll finish the electrical in my shop and get to work!

[aewrigh]

Ok guys. Boat is set up in my own shop now. I will have the piece of aluminum for the last crossmember tomorrow. New welder (hobart handler 190 w/ spool gun) will be here tomorrow as well. I have been looking for gas bottles to buy but no luck. Will probably rent a couple for now. My build may be slow I am afraid though as I am a perfectionist. Someone please tell me I don't have to be. My hull I had built is not straight so it will be a headache the whole time for an anal person like myself. Also, I started to bolt my prop on and the bolts sure became hard to turn. The prop was hard to assemble in the first place so possibly the holes aren't drilled just right in the blades? Would it be beneficial to take it apart and lightly drill them out? I figure the aluminum pieces are good but I haven't taken it back apart to see. See pic. Here are some pics:

[aerokirk]

aewrigh ... regarding the propeller bolts .... when I tried to attach my whirlwind prop to my circle S drive I had the same problem - the bolts tightened up immediately. In my case, whirlwind had sent me metric bolts and I discovered from Bruce that the Circle-S reducer takes 5/16" SAE bolts. Not sure if that's the case with yours since it looks like you're using a different brand prop but just thought I'd mention it to you. At any rate, don't force them until you're sure you have the right bolts as you'll risk damaging threads in the drive hub.

[aewrigh]

Thanks Kirk, great info. I finally got a chance to pull it back apart this evening and they were indeed metric bolts. I ran a tap through the inserts to be safe and made a run to lowes to pick up the right bolts. Grade 5 is all they had but the metric bolts sent with the prop were grade 5 or even softer. I busted out the new welder today and practiced a little with the spool gun. Repaired a set of aluminum atv ramps for my dad as well. I'll weld in the last crossmember tomorrow and then I'll start on my motor stand. Hopefully I'll be able to fire up the motor to blow the cob webs out this weekend.

[aewrigh]

Well I got the crossmember in. Also tacked up the main legs of the engine stand. I placed a piece of conduit against the back of the rear main hoop and spun one blade back and forth measuring from prop tip to the conduit trying to get the motor sitting square. Is there a more accurate way? How close do I need to be. I am within an eighth inch back and forth. I think there might be a difference from blade to blade. Should I check all 3 and go with an average? Now for an x-brace in the rear, couple going from rear to front, a gusset or two, etc. Maybe I can fire up the engine this weekend. Anyways, here are a few pics:

[aerokirk]

I ran a string line from transom to bow on the boat centerline and then used a plumb bob down from the engine centerline in order to get it square. After the engine and prop were mounted I put the prop horizontal (2 blade) and measured from each prop tip to the center of the boat's bow to make sure the measurements were the same. With a three blade you could get two of the blades equally high by putting a long level from tip to tip and then measure each to the boat front like I did. Just a thought.