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Thread: aewrigh's build

  1. #101
    Administrator Papee's Avatar
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    Re: aewrigh's build

    Ok here's some photos of stuff you were asking about.

    First is the carb linkage, I made this with the intention of redoing it but it hasn't given me any problems so I never made a nicer one.

    Second is the adjuster I put on the front mount for the engine trim. You'll notice it's a little bent, I had a mishap with a tree at one point and broke the motor loose and shattered a prop. I also put a pretty big dent in the bow of the boat. I haven;t had the time to take it apart and redo the stand but it works fine the way it is.

    The third photo is the govenor plate.
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  2. #102
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    Re: aewrigh's build

    Here are some photos on the rudders looks like I only used two straps on the length.
    For the swivel I just welded in some nuts in the end of the conduit and threaded a bolt in it then welded it to the frame.
    I just oil the up once a year and they've worked fine. They are plenty of better ways to do it but I have a very limited budget to wirk with so I use what I have.
    You can also see the bar I use to keep the correct spacing of the rudders front to back. I think I used 1 1/2 inch smaller from front to back of the rudders for my offset. Rudders are spaced wider towards the prop than the edge away from the prop.
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  3. #103
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    Re: aewrigh's build

    Thank you so much for the pictures! I thought that the rudder's pivot point really needed to be 4-6 inches from the front of the rudder? Is this not a big deal?

  4. #104
    Administrator Papee's Avatar
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    Re: aewrigh's build

    The big boats and many minis use a foil type rudder where part of the rudder is in front of the pivot point.This is done to make them easier to steer. On a mini you don't have the thrust you do on bigger boats so it's not as important. Mine steers just fine the way it is, it's not hard to steer at all. Using a flat rudder like this it's harder to do this also. I've never had a High power boat and have always done mine this way.
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  5. #105
    Senior Geezer buster's Avatar
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    Re: aewrigh's build

    aewrigh'

    I see you wanted to know what voltage regulator I used on my 084. It was an Onan #191-2106 . There is a new one on eBay now for $20.00, the item number is 321127819175. Very simple to hook up, center tab to Batt +, the other tabs to the two alternator wires. It might be a good idea to mount it on a piece of aluminum for cooling.

    That being said I should tell you I was thinking of changing over to a car alternator to increase the amps I was getting, since I needed to use my battery charger sometimes. I had a few Ford alternators lying around, but I sold my boat before I got around to that.

    Dave
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  6. #106
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    Re: aewrigh's build

    papee, I was thinking of running a length of all-thread down the side of the rudder to get my pivot point further back. I'd have to find some plastic bushings and possibly look at some hinges to take apart and use for the pivot point. Think there would be a problem with that? Buster, what all were you running on your boat to need more charging current? I figured that I would have running lights, a bilge pump, maybe some led driving lights, etc. I might put some bowfishing lights on the circuit as well but they would be led. And if I run the lights without the fan, I will run a small generator with a converter to run my trolling motor and keep the battery up. How many charging amps are you getting out of this regulator you speak of at idle?

  7. #107
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    Re: aewrigh's build

    It would be nice to have a 100 amp alternator spinning but how much power would that rob and how hard would it be to build the mount and get a v-belt pulley set up to work right?

  8. #108
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    Re: aewrigh's build

    Buster, I've been toying with the idea of putting an alternator on my boat where the old starter Gen setup was. But I remember back in my camping days I made a charger for camp out of a dodge alternator and it pulled hard on a eight horspower motor. I had to start the motor first then throw an excitor switch to get it charging. It really pulled hard on that little motor. I've been wanting to put a small alt on my boat but I'm afraid that it would take away a lot of rpms because of the draw when it's charging. I guess it would only have a big load on the motor if the battery was low?
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  9. #109
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    Re: aewrigh's build

    I made a quick drawing of how I can utilize the aluminum I have for the rudders. I don't know how to upload a pic though from a url without using another program first......I can't attach it it seems?
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    Last edited by aewrigh; 05-27-2013 at 07:32 PM.

  10. #110
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    Re: aewrigh's build

    kinda figured it out. with a 66 inch prop I would need a 44 inch tall rudder as a rule of thumb? what about the width? I remember chuck telling me he used 36x20 rudders but he might have been putting smaller props on. This is the best I can do with my aluminum that I have.....assuming there is more thrust near the tips of the prop blades, I would put the widest part of the rudder towards the bottom correct? I have seen lots of pics of rudders oriented the opposite way though is the only reason I bring it up. Any adjustments on the measurements I have drawn up?

  11. #111
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    Re: aewrigh's build

    I just went by looks, I went with what I liked. I forget the specifics but there is not much thrust at the end of the prop, most of it comes from the center "half of the blade. Split your blade into 4 parts, the thrust comes from the center two of the four sections. Of course this all depends on how your prop is designed.
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  12. #112
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    Re: aewrigh's build

    makes sense.....is the 20 inch width adequate or could I get away with less?

  13. #113
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    Re: aewrigh's build

    I'll have to measure mine. I'm thinking mine are only 18" at the widest point. My memory isn't so good these days.
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  14. #114
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    Re: aewrigh's build

    last question for tonight.....been bugging me for a while now....when I first started trying to get this motor started, I tried jumping pins together on the cannon plug for an hour and kept pulling and pulling and still nothing. after a bit of reading I figured that taking off the white wire on the mag would disable any chance of spark being shorted to ground, disabling all safety circuits. more pulling and still nothing. Finally I decided to hook the white wire back up and boom....2 pools and it busted off. by the wiring diagrams, the white wire and it's shield are busted apart and go to two different pins on the cannon plug. the shield is grounded to the magneto case. if you were to hook up a n.o. switch between those two pins, turning the switch on would ground out the spark through the white wire, through the shield, and back to the case of the mag. If that is all true, then why would the motor NOT run with the white wire lifted?!!!! makes no sense to me.

  15. #115
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    Re: aewrigh's build

    What mag do you have?
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  16. #116
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    Re: aewrigh's build

    it reads on the tag: Fairbanks morse, cw type 15, FMPE 4B, Gov. part number 13215E1717

  17. #117
    Senior Geezer buster's Avatar
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    Re: aewrigh's build

    aewrigh and Papee,

    First of all I had very little equipment drawing power, only a starter, bildge pump, and the gauges.
    Next, I never got around to trying a Ford alternator, so I don't know if it would have pulled hard when it wasn't charging, maybe it would have been a bad idea! If you do go with a automotive type starter I think it will only turn hard when it's charging, but you need to use some power to keep your battery up or it will eventually die! I think an 084 should have enough power that you shouldn't need to unhook any wires to get it to start turning.
    I can't remember how many amps I was getting from the stock alternator, CRS you know. It is possible my battery was not up to snuff, even though it was not very old.
    I understand the stator in the stock alternator can be rewound to change it from 24 to 12 volts, thereby making it charge twice as much. I probably would have tried that eventually, It may have been better than the Ford alt. idea. My buddy that built generators for Onan for thirty some years told me about that trick. I just called him and he is willing to explain how to do it to you if you give him a call. Ask for Hank Sr, at 651 462 5556. Evenings are the best time to call, but not on friday!
    Hope I have been of some help,
    Dave
    Last edited by buster; 05-28-2013 at 03:23 PM. Reason: Added some info.
    IF YOU WON'T STAND BEHIND OUR TROOPS, THEN JUST STAND IN FRONT OF THEM!

  18. #118
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    Re: aewrigh's build

    aewrigh,

    As far as mounting an automotive alternator, I don't think it is difficult at all. If you have the rope-start pulley available for the driving belt, I think I'd use a flat serpentine belt, instead of a v-belt. I'd get the pulley turned so it's true and 90 degrees flat. From there on it's just a matter of fabbing a couple brackets, one for a mounting pivot, and another for a slotted adjustment. You can save some time if you get these brackets with the alternator off the car, and just adapt them to your needs.

    Dave
    IF YOU WON'T STAND BEHIND OUR TROOPS, THEN JUST STAND IN FRONT OF THEM!

  19. #119
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    Re: aewrigh's build

    I have my rope start pulley machined for the serpentine belt. Since I don't have a starter I don't have much draw from the battery. I just have the automatic anchor winch and the gauges drawing. Too bad I really cooked my starter/gen or I'd be using it to charge. Maybe I can find a garden tractor alt since I'm just using it to keep the battery topped of. I thought about putting a 12v solor panel deal on it but from what I am reading they don't really "charge" your battery but just keep them topped off. Right now I just throw the charger on it before I use it so I can use the anchor winch.
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  20. #120
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    Re: aewrigh's build

    Spoke with Hank today.....he will be rewinding my stator for me.

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