Yes, the starter side of this setup didn't do well. It took a lot of amps to get the starter to work which shortened the life of the starter/gen.
Yes, the starter side of this setup didn't do well. It took a lot of amps to get the starter to work which shortened the life of the starter/gen.
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OK thanks.
So why not run a 24v system since the 4a084 is already setup for 24v, or is it just the added weight of two batteries?
a couple of things to think about, if you were to keep the 24v setup. you have 2 batteries bouncing around, and all the accessories would need to be 24v compatible.
me, I am adapting everything to a 12 volts,
the first reason, is this is what I have on hand. also I can go to the local Napa store, and things that I need are on the shelf.
from what I have dealt with anything that is 24 volt, can be very heavy.
and every one is trying to cut out all the weight, that they can
Pretty much what bart said, I use the stock charging system with an Onan rectifier.
Link to rectifier
http://www.ebay.com/itm/ONAN-Voltage...-/330614674877
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Agreed but maybe easier and two small batteries instead of the large size to use. All you need is starting and a few resistors (I think or) to get the LED to run on lights or even a converter off the battery.
But in any case, yes, things would have to be modified. Might be cheaper, not sure.
If not, then does anyone have a diagram of their set up and the wiring conversion on the motor (I haven't received mine yet so I don't know or even know what to take off etc.)?
Papee, I mist have replied right after your post and didn't see it. I'll look at the info.
Thanks,
On Amazon also:
http://www.amazon.com/VOLTAGE-REGULA.../dp/B00ACXS1QU
Papee, how is yours hooked up/diagram?
I see AC/B+/AC tabs and I'm guessing the the AC from the motor/generator runs to that and the lights off B+ ?
Also, I'm guessing that the Generator has a receptacle on it already (will know more when it arrives) and if so is this possible-to leave one hooked up and then you have AC power on the boat if needed? Has anyone thought of that or is it to big and cumbersome to leave it for that purpose.
P.S. Can others provide a wiring diagram?
It's easy, the b+ goes to your battery positive through a switch/ign and the other two get hooked to the wires coming out of your alt on the engine. Doesn't matter which goes on which on the outside two.
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Ok I'll have to look into this later cause I'm confused. Not by our directions, but the 24v system in then you say an alternator.
So to get this right, you are saying to KEEP the 24v system ON the motor, then add this rectifier sending/connecting the two wires to the alternator on the engine to charge one battery (center tab B+) making it 12v system converted from a 24v system in theory. Then run things off the 12v battery, correct?
Thanks and please ignore my ignorance in this.
Jim
a couple of things to think about,
the original set up the 4A084, motor comes with an eternal voltage regulator that will reduce the voltage coming out of the stator to 24 volts,
the voltage regulator mentioned above, reduces the voltage to 12-14 volts, from which you can operate the 12 volt system,
voltage regulators can fail, on my snowmobiles that will happen every couple of years, you usually find out that this happens, when all your lighting has failed,
I have measured the voltage coming out of some of my other toys, BEFORE the regulator, and if my memory is correct, the stator was putting out 38 to 40 volts.
all that you are asking of the voltage regulator is to reduce the stator output to what you are needing, it can be 24 volts, 12 volts, or 6 volts.
you have to remember that this motor was built in the 60's & 70's, and all vehicles from that time, had an external voltage regulator on them.
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