084 Engine

**Duane Scarborough** · 08-20-2009, 07:03 PM

Buster,

You may be on to something there. I'm betting that your engine was partially torn down, then slapped back together, just so it was mostly all there. I'd bet that when you pull the oil pan off you'll find it has been off before, and the gasket was NOT replaced.

Hopefully a new gaket will solve most of your oil leaks.

The mushroom breather should be checked to be sure it's clear, and the other breather should be connected to the clean side of your air filter, like it was in its original configuration. That way, you'll have a slight negative pressure in the crankcase, which should help with leaks as well.

Just my opinion...

Duane

**airhead** · 08-20-2009, 09:04 PM

Hey Duane,
Have you had the breather off your engine. I never gave it much thought until Buster had this problem. Now i am curious if it is packed. I would think it is and that is why i am concerned he may be building pressure in the crankcase. I tried to take mine out but the open end wrench just slipped. If you remember the old valve cover breathers before PVC came along they would plug up eventually, especially if the engine was using oil. Now, if someone rebuilt the engine and didn't clean this dude, well

Didn't mean to ramble i'm just curious if i need to put more effort into removing mine to clean it.

Buster, I think i would do whatever to check this and if one of you'll would let me know how it is constructed it would be appreciated.

Thaanks, Jim

**Duane Scarborough** · 08-20-2009, 09:12 PM

Airhead,

No, I have not had that breather off of the engine. It appears to just be a mesh filter media like you described. Since the design is from the same time, I assume they are similar.

Duane

**buster** · 08-20-2009, 09:36 PM

Airhead,

I just pulled that mushroom breather off. It is hard to see inside, but I don't think it is packed with anything. It acts like a check valve. I can blow through it, but can't suck out. In other words, the air can go into the crankcase, but can't get out through that valve.

Dave

**chuckitt** · 08-20-2009, 09:49 PM

I would do it like we do on the aircraft engines. I would take the little breather off and put a hose barb fitting in it and run a 3/8 in. hose up to the top of the cage and tyrap it off. This will releave the crankcase pressure and maybe help with the oil leaks.
Thanks, Chuck

**buster** · 08-20-2009, 09:58 PM

Chuck,

Do I need to put that check valve breather on the end of that hose, or just leave it open, and pointing downward I suppose?

Thanks, Dave

**chuckitt** · 08-20-2009, 10:12 PM

We just leave it open and run it over the top of the cage and turn it down a little to keep water out and cut the end at 45 degrees to keep the bees out. It works good.
Chuck

**buster** · 08-20-2009, 10:28 PM

Chuck,

If anyone but you had suggested that, I would think the prop would put a lot of suction on the crankcase, and siphon oil out. I will give it a try.

Thanks, Dave

**airhead** · 09-10-2009, 03:39 PM

While trying to decide whether to use the original canister filter or iinstall a remote i discovered something odd. ( to me anyway ) The hoses coming out of the engine are marked in and out. The filter housing is also marked. On my 084 the in and in were connected together on therefor the out and out were also. Now i would think that when it comes out of the engine it should go to the in on the housing. I will check to be sure the oil is flowing in the correct direction but in the meantime i was just wondering if anyone has noticed this. I figure it was a typical military mechanic and the are crossed.

Jim

**buster** · 09-11-2009, 01:42 AM

Jim,

It must be a coincidence, but today about the time you posted, I happened to be hooking up new hoses on my 084. I also noticed the in and out markings on the block, and the filter housing.

When I first got my engine It had some parts missing, and the hoses were unhooked. I looked in the manuel, which didn't help much, but did have one picture that almost showed the routing. If you have the same manuel as I do, It is on page 3-28.

From that picture, I determined that the "out" port on the block, should go to the "in" port on the filter.

At least that is how I hooked them up. I guess it must be right, at least the engine develops around forty psi oil pressure. I don't think it would if it was hooked wrong, would it?

As long as were on that subject, my spin on oil filter calls for a certain oil filter cartridge, but I have a good supply of FL-1A filters left over from my shop. They fit the housing. If anyone knows any reason I shouldn't use them, please chime in.

Thanks,
Dave

**airhead** · 09-11-2009, 09:43 AM

Buster,

The only thing i can see happening with the oil lines being hooked up backwards is the oil would be fed into the filter backwards. Now is this a problem? I don't think so but i want it correct so i can examine the filter at change time. This is another reason i decided to keep the old canister. Now i will not have to open up the filter to see what it looks like. Also i moved the starter to the other side and can leave the filter there. As far as pressure goes, I don't think the lines backwards would effect the pressure.

If i had a supply of filters that fit i think i would use them. Some filters are different, ie some have check valves built in, but normally i think they are pretty much the same.

If anyone has info to add please do so.

Jim

**airhead** · 09-11-2009, 09:59 AM

Buster,

I didn't mention it earlier but i plan to check all this filter business out in a few days and will report back. In the meantime maybe someone else already has and will chime in.