Sliding

**Papee** · 10-17-2008, 09:41 PM

My hull is home made aluminum and with the new setup it will start to slide too easily in a turn. I am having to hit the throttle and push the stick harder for it to catch. My hull is pretty much flat in the back, just a little rounded. Is this going to be a characteristic of this hull or is there something I can do.

I had a close call the other day with a rock because of this. If I am rounding a turn and hit some lower water at the same time it will lift and slide out. When I do hit the throttle to get it to dig in some times it doesn't catch well enough to get turned. Would shimming the motor so it pushes the back down help this? I would probably lose some speed but I would rather turn.

**chuckitt** · 10-18-2008, 08:57 AM

Hey Papee, Thats the problem with a hard chime boat. Shiming the engine may help some but will change how your boat gets on plane. Try letting off the throttle and when the transom starts setting down in the water, start your turn giving it a lot of throttle at the same time. Find some shallow water to try this. Take a picture of the Transom and post it so I know the shape
and maybe what can be done to make it bite in and turn better.
Thanks, Chuck

**Papee** · 10-18-2008, 05:13 PM

That's pretty much what I do Chuck. When I let off the boat will glide a pretty good distance before it starts to come down. If I don't it will just spin out. I like that because if I come up a ledge that has sharp rocks I can stop it quick. Maybe more prop will help it some, when I start the turn then hit the gas maybe the extra push will help it dig in. I could put in some more weight or gain a few more lbs.

I finished up at camp today so it's probably the last trip of the year unless we happen to have some nice weather for a day or two. It was windy and 50 degrees out there today.

**ASHORN** · 10-19-2008, 04:33 PM

I know what the slide out is like. Had a home made Jet Boat Hull for a while
with no chines at all. For the most part the back was square and the bottom
was flat. More or less a box with a raised front.

I made up some reversed chines to bolt on the sides. They stuck out on the
each side in the port and starbord sides. They were about 3 feet long, stuck
out about 5 inches and curved down about 3 inches. I turned like it was on rails.
BUT I got water over the back when turning to quickly. The boat would dig a hole
in the water to the point where the stern was below the water. If you were to
let off the water would come over the back big time.

Take a look at some of the jetskis, the three seaters have them and look at the
setup. You will see what I am talking about.

Not sure how to post a picture here. Will look to see if I still have a set of plastic
ones I used on another home made hull.

**Papee** · 10-19-2008, 07:34 PM

That sounds like and Idea. I don't have any problem with water coming over the back even if I shut completely down while at full speed. My hull glides enough that the wake doesn't catch up so quickly.

To post a photo you just click on the Browse button then search on you computer for the photo you want share. Then click on add the file and it will post when you hit submit

**ASHORN** · 10-21-2008, 12:40 PM

Here is a chine like I built, my set up was bolted to the sides in the stern
but I think you will get the ides from this drawing.

**Duane Scarborough** · 03-02-2009, 06:24 PM

O.K., that makes me ask if the ribs on the bottom of a Jon boat wouldn't be a good thing. I was thinking that they'd work against me, but it sounds like they'd work for me.

Which takes me about full circle back to my original thought of using a 14' Jon boat for a mini hull. Standard width 14' Jon boats are easy to find a deal on. Wide ones are almost impossible.

Has anyone here tried that? (a standard width 14' Jon boat)

I'm trying to build my first on a tight budget.

Thanks,

**Papee** · 03-03-2009, 02:00 AM

The biggest problem with Jon Boats is that are just not wide enough. If you don't have the width the hull sits too deep in the water. When the hull sits deep in the water it takes more hp to get it on plane. If you have a setup that floats light in the water it is easier to get moving. I know it's an added expense to go with the right hull but it is well worth the money. It saves money in the long run because you don't have to rebuild your boat because your hull isn't the best choice for your plans. If you start with the right hull your tinkering will be much more fun! I started out with a 16x5 hull and an 18 hp briggs. After doing everything I could to the motor and prop setup I moved to a bigger power plant. Now I got this one running the best it can and I want something shiny and new. It never ends.

**Duane Scarborough** · 03-03-2009, 06:15 PM

LOL, I know what you say is true. I'll keep looking for a wide hull.

BTW, I won that bid on the 4A084. It should be on its way soon.

But about the ribs on a Jon boat. Would the ribs be a positive or negative thing on a wide Jon boat?

I've seen lot's of "real" airboat hulls for sale at reasonable prices in central Florida. I may decide to go that way, and take a couple of vacation days for a road trip.

Thanks,

**David** · 03-03-2009, 07:07 PM

I dont think I would use a jon boat hull because the ribs on the bottom might cause to much drag in a sharp turn mite roll over you said rode trip just buy one of chucks hulls and i'll bring it to ya

**Duane Scarborough** · 03-07-2009, 07:12 PM

David,

I've been looking at some of Chuck's boats here, and like what I've seen. I may need to take 2 road trips. One to look at them first hand and decide what I want, and place my order, and another to go back to pick it up.

His MiniPro 116 is looking very good to me. I wonder if he's got someone local that builds a trailer for that hull.

But it'll be a while before I'm ready for a hull. I've got to get the engine / reduction drive / etc. like I want it first. UPS freight is supposed to deliver the engine to my work place Monday.

Thanks,
Duane