Re: OIL PLUG modification
Will this modified plug be the only drain point available for oil changes? If so, I recommend steel or brass, instead of aluminum. Aluminum, being soft, has a greater chance of galling and locking up in the steel pan threads. Do be careful with how far you insert your sensor. You could run into interference from the swinging crank, and the sensor will lose the battle.
OK.....looking at the pics a second time, it appears that the sensor will be located close to a lower corner of the sump. It's inlikely you'll have any clearance problems with the crank.
Roger
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Re: OIL PLUG modification
Good point Roger and the aluminum could very well end up loose with frequent oil changes...Bart going off memory, the original oil plug has straight threads and rely on the fiber washer for sealing duty...The brass plug I bought had tapered threads and I ended up using a die to change the threads to a standard thread..I'm sure you've already run into this but you have to watch how far the sending unit goes into the 084 pan there isn't much room after the plug is installed..It appears the front plug might have a touch more room with the taper of the pan..
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Re: OIL PLUG modification
those are some good ideas, I just turned the one out of aluminum, because I had that on hand, and was wanting to see what the side wall was with a 1/8" pipe thread in it. I was thinking of tuning one out of a bolt. but to get the 3/4" dia. for the threads, the bolt head was 1-1/4, so it was back to 1" hex stock
looking at what is available. 1018 steel or brass. Brass is twice the cost, but leaves a good machine finish. 1018 steel is not so easy in leaving a good finish. on the small lathes.
also I came across some 420/430 stainless bar, which is machinable. but still leaning towards the brass.
that is also another good point. as to how long the probe can be. I measured the depth in the drain well in the back corner of the oil pan, from the face where the gasket meets, to the edge of the well, is 1.42 inches, so there is a little wiggle room of almost 7/8" into the oil..
looking at the picture, that should be more than enough...
I am thinking at the rear of the pan, the oil would be hotter, due to a couple of reasons. it is right below the relief drain pipe from the oil pump. so there is more circulation, in that corner, and being on the leeward side of the air flow, the heat will not dissipate as quick, like at the front of the pan. it might be only 10 degrees, but that is something I will be looking at with the temp gun.
all in all, I am liking the pitch of the threads I turned out. it matches the JIC pitch, and on the lathe it is just a time thing to turn them out.
figure with the few gasket kits I have purchased,there should be an gasket for the oil plug included.
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Re: OIL PLUG modification
the 1" SS 420 hex stock came in today, ended up making 2, I was trying for another 1/4 turn with the plug tap. and now I need to remove the broken part. after fiddling with it for a while. It was simpler at the moment to turn out another one.
the only thing I changed is putting a 1/16" landing on the inside shoulder, to give the hex a little distance from the tank.
I like it. the oil temp gauge only hangs out past it, by 3/8 of an inch.
now I just need to drain the oil and install.
if anyone would like one similar to this let me know, and I will see what I can do...
Re: OIL PLUG modification
Ain't it great having a metal lathe just waiting for you to turn something out as needed? :-D;thumb;
Roger
Re: OIL PLUG modification
Nice work Bart...PM me and we'll work out the details...I could use one for my other 084 engine...;thumb;