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Question, is there a break-in procedure for a NOS 4a084-4 engine?
I know there is a procedure for CM but was wondering because when the 4a084-4 arrives I want to run it.
I looked through one PDF and I didn't see the info, only running it for many hours but that might have been for the MFG to the Govt. for testing.
Thanks,
Jim
Jim, I was just looking at my 084 today and there's a red tag attached to the engine...It gives a brief procedure for getting the fogging oil out of the cylinders...Basically wants you to pull all the plugs and spin the engine to expel the oil from the cylinders,then clean and reinstall the plugs...Add the oil of your choice and fire it up...
I spoke with Mark at Saturn Surplus back when I got my engine and expressed my concerns about firing up before my build...His exact words were "Still in the crate? Can you spin it by hand ?? If so it'll fire up don't worry about it until you're ready." So I have'nt even fired mine up yet I figure the engine is better off in hibernation than to fire it up and let it sit around with bare cylinder walls for any length of time...
With that being said...If you really feel the need to hear that engine run I'd at least monitor the oil pressure...Don't forget to make a kill wire up to ground out the magneto...And when the engine does fire up it's should be the same as any other flat tappet cammed engine...Get the RPMs up to get the lifters freed up and spinning {over 1000 RPM} don't let it idle too long for the first few minutes...I always add an engine additive like Comp Cams break-in lube it's loaded with anti-scuff and Zinc ingredients for that initial fire-up...Keep in mind these engines have been sitting around a long time and need all the help they can get for a long, happy life...
Quote:
Originally Posted by Corky
Thank you very much. Mine is being shipped and I'm waiting on it.
I'm going ot run some Brad Penn break-in oil. I have found the additive in the can, can take some time to mix and sometimes cause premature failure of the cam. With the additive in the oil, it is there the momnent you fire it up. Run for 1/2hr at speed and then change filter, top off and run w/that oil for 500miles. Of course I'm talking about a car motor but should be the same. I'm going that route I think/safer for the engine. Just a thought and thanks for the tip.
Jim
Brad Penn oil is a great choice...Most don't want to spring for that oil because of the price but it's well worth it and has great reviews for years...Sounds like you've got a good plan together...
I found this and great reviews. Make sure you get the one labeled (Aircraft).
http://www.amazon.com/ASL-pt-CamGuar...S9KQQ002A83HWP
Product Description
CamGuard Aviation is a blend of high performance additives that fortify piston aircraft oils to provide the utmost in engine protection. Because of FAA regulations and costs, even the newest commercial aircraft oil technology is antiquated. It addresses the complex interrelated problems of corrosion, deposits and wear in air-cooled piston aircraft engines. Infrequent engine use leads to pitting corrosion on cam and lifter surfaces. This pitting causes rapid cam and lifter wear, or worse, catastrophic spalling. Current oil technology allows the buildup of deposits that leads to accelerated cylinder and ring wear resulting in decreased compressions and increased maintenance. CamGuard Aviation contains powerful multi-metal corrosion inhibitors that prevent rust and corrosion in infrequently used engines. It also contains powerful multi-metal corrosion inhibitors that prevent rust and corrosion in infrequently used engines.
Some are saying to use aircraft oils like Phillips 66 - XC 20W50 Aviation Oil.
http://www.amazon.com/Phillips-66-20...A49YZNHCMM4SPC
Product Description
Phillips XC 20W-50 Aviation Oil is the first approved multiviscosity aviation oil for opposed piston engines. It provides better engine performance than any single-grade oil in all weather conditions. XC 20W-50 is formulated with an ashless dispersant package allowing for cleaner engine operation. X/C 20W-50 is recommended for break-in. It provides a cleaner and quicker break-in than traditional all mineral single grade oils. Plus, X/C®is an operational oil so there is no need to switch oils after break-in. X/C 20W-50 utilizes all petroleum base oils which provide excellent solvency and is successful in preventing lead and lead salts. Take advantage of X/C 20W-50's multiviscosity performance benefits year-round for easier starts and quicker flow of oil to critical engine parts.
You can certainly use the Phillips XC20W50 oil in the 084 as I've used it for years in my Piper Comanche aircraft with no problem. I don't think you need to go this expensive for the 084 though as there are many good oils out there. I'm using Rotella 15w40 and it seems to do just fine. The Philips 20W50 requires engine preheating in cold temps but I guess that's not a consideration for you given your location.
Thank you,
I wouldn't be too concerned about fuel. I've been running the same motor almost ten years now on 87 octane. No problems, in fact the only repairs I have had to make in that time is replacing a head because the stock Heli coil blew out. I run 10/40 oil in mine, I have to warm up a bit before running in colder weather but it's not a problem. By the time I idle away from the boat landing it is warmed up and ready to go.
Since we are talking about oil and break-in etc.
Would a 30 row oil cooler be to much?
Living here in Florida it gets really hot/humid and the summers can be brutal.
What say ye?
Speed Daddy cooler from eBay.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/30-ROW-10AN-...item51a8c967a5
I doubt you can get too much oil cooler. the bigger the cooler the more oil you have and the more cooling area. With that said, there is a point where it's not really needed. I use a small transmission cooler. It depends really on the application, I run direct drive and don't see the rpms the guys running reduction drives do so I can get away with running a smaller cooler.
OK thanks. I was wondering it to big would it get the oil to cool but I guess not. I'm was looking into a 19 row but will probably shoot for the 30.
There's something else to think about when picking the cooler...The value of the cooler's added pressure/restriction to the system...There could be a situation where the cooler is too big.....A bigger cooler will aid with more volume and cooling ability to a point but with a cheaper,poorly manufactured and/or designed cooler too big might mean too much strain on the engines oil pump trying to push what could be 3 or 4 times the value it was designed to take for long periods of time...Most high end engine oil coolers are high volume/low restriction units with this in mind...
Automotive oil pump systems have a bypass circuit where if the filter gets clogged or dirty to a certain pressure it will bypass the filter completely I have'nt researched the 084s oiling system enough to see if it has this feature also or wether the pump has the ability to build pressure to the point of failure....
Just thinking out loud...Not saying the one you're looking at might be the one...
Good thoughts, didn't think of that. Maybe I'll stick to the 19 row.Quote:
Originally Posted by Corky
On my 360AMC v8 I have a block off plate and use WIX/NAPA Gold filters and they have a by-pass valve in them. Great filters BTW. Keeps my pressure up on the ole AMC
Hi Rollbar:
Getting ready to crank an '84 for the first time. How did your break in go with the Brad Penn? Did you use the SAE 30 break in oil? Was the motor at full rpm for the first 30 minutes? Thanks for any help you can provide.
Haven't done it yet and have to move on/sell the 084 but I would use the 30wt BradPenn oil.
Thanks Rollbar