Not really a new design. Buster was the first I know of doing this type of setup. I do have the photos that are missing from his thread somewhere on my servers if I could just find them.



I suppose this could also be used by the reduction drive guys that don't have a starter included. It will be on the rope pulley end and use Subaru starter and Chevy flexplate The starter will be tucked in beside the motor. I will be offering this for sale but only including the brackets to mount it. It would be more expensive to have the starter and flywheel shipped here then have to ship it again. I will include the year and part numbers after I have this on and tested.

Another thing came up when we were brainstorming on this subject that may be worth looking into is the electric motor on some of the new vehicles that allow the engine to stop and start at stop signs or red lights. I really haven't looked into that much because I'm full steam ahead getting the Subaru setup together.

Really anxious to see how well this turns out! Sounds like a perfect setup for my build.
Kenneth

It's not too hard to figure out a combination tha will work on these engines. The main concern is having enough clearance beside the oil pan between the headers. This pretty much means going with a 14" Chevy flywheel. There are a few good candidates that turn the right way but those choices use a ring gear that is mounted on the torque converter. This means making a center piece for the ring gear to make a flexplate.

To add to this some starters use a different amount of gears and different gear pitch so finding just the right setup that is both easy to do and easy on the wallet is quite a task. I had the idea of reversing a Chevy starter but then you run into a bendix mismatch problem. The easiest thing I'm seeing is to get a marine stater that turns ccw and use the Chevy 14" flywheel. This setup is a bit more than my target price for this setup but its looking like this is the way we're headed. Now to find the best price on a ccw marine starter that will work with the Chevy flywheel. The cheapest I've found that will work is $169 plus shipping.

I have all the parts now and ready to start this project. My idea is to bolt the flywheel to the lip of the rope pulley using 8 bolts. I see no reason this will not be strong enough as well as safe. Anyone have any concerns or input on this? I could build up the lip and make it stronger but I really don't see a need for it. There will be no side load on it so I think it will be fine. I will be moving the drivers seat forward a bit as well as fabbing a good cover for it. I think the cover can be solid aluminum and not interfere with the cooling or air flow to the prop.

Ideas/concerns?

A few thoughts...
Are you proceding with the 14" chevy flexplate ??? If so it already has holes and I'm wondering if there would'nt be any benefit with using a screen{or a series of holes} on the front and having a framework around the perimeter for safety...I'm not sure how much air would pass through the flexplate but any would be better than none...Tuff call...

I'll have to look at my rope pulley tommorow but if strength was a concern{which I don't think it will be} by only securing around the perimeter you could possibly make up a reinforcement hub to bolt on using the 4 inner holes{it would also help center the flexplate}...

I wonder if there would ever be a need for a hole in the flexplate so you could still get a rope on the pulley ???

The new holes won't be near the stock holes. Here's a photo of the backing plate for the flywheel on the pulley.

I started this today. It took me a while to get the flexplate aligned on the hub, the lip of the pulley was not real true so I had to find other references for measuring. I used six bolts, I have to get some hardened hardware for it but the flywheel is on. I'll be figuring out the starter mounting tomorrow. I'm hoping I can use some tie wire and wire the starter up close to where it needs to be so I can figure it all out.

I am using a 14" Chevy flexplate.
It worked out good mounting it to the lip and I'm not the least concerned about it being strong enough. I like it.

Edit: My pulley most likely looks different than others, my pulley was modified to run a serpentine belt for the starter/gen setup that didn't work out so well.

Looks good...I could'nt picture just how much engine got covered with the 14 inch but it's not bad...

My seat is right in front of that so it doesn't get much air any way. I'm pretty sure I'll be able to use a solid piece of aluminum to protect that area. I'll try it since I have the materials and measure the head temps with my thermal gun.

Great progress Papee! Looking Good! Installing a guard I think is a very smart idea. Aluminum expanded metal is easy to come by at Home D if that would help in reduced weight and aid air circulation.

I didn't get much done today it was slow going. I held the starter in place and its a tight fit close to the engine even with the 14" flexplate. This is because of the big Chevy starter I am using for this one. I'm pretty sure the Subaru starter is a bunch smaller and lighter than this starter. I haven't found the exact year on that starter yet but I do have the part number for it. I'll be using that one for my uncles boat.

I spent the evening making brackets for the starter that I can weld to as needed when I put the starter in place. I'll be able to wire the starter in place with the tie wire and cut and tack brackets to the ones I've made on the starter then remove it for final welding. I am going to try to use the four bolts on the pan for the main mounting points making a bracket on them that I can weld braces between the oil pan brackets and the ones I made on the starter. It's pretty much useless to copy at this point because this will not be the preferred starter choice.

When I do this with the green boat using the oil pan as the main mounting points I should be able to make copies of the mounts for others using the Subaru starter. I'm sure there will have to be other braces added but I'll try to use all engine locations for these because of the different engine mounting others use.

This is not a hard project just time consuming making all the parts and head scratching.

Well it's on and making noise! I still have to clean up my wiring a bit, add a lower bar and put a cover on it. I also have to redo my throttle cable, the way it was it was too close to the flywheel.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4HzUCi_u4VU&list=UUrsyqQdomVPUk0P8hnwlnzg

I'm considering using some type of paint on coating on the back of the flexplate on the next one to try to reduce some of the "ringing" sound you hear from the flexplate.

I wonder if the ringing would be reduced if you use the reinforcement plate you've shown in the other pic ??? It might cut down on the resonance..

Papee, how close is your gear to your oil filter? Mine is 1/4"???
Your thoughts?
Kenneth

I have a remote oil filter I'm not running the stock one but it shouldn't be a problem.

So I have. A 14" chevy flex plate where can I get the rest of the parts for this build

or use this one. it was an easy install and might have been cheaper. i used a 350 chevy mini starter and 2 pieces of 4 in angle aluminum. bolted the chevy flex plate to back of prop hub with a spacer to align the flexplate with starter and bolted angle to back of engine. aligned the starter and done.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E-dXnh8OzWQ&feature=youtu.be

thread is in 084 forum under 350 starter on 084

Not quite sure if I can the way mine is set up

looks like the same prop adapter as the one i used to mount the chevy flex plate on. i had to have a 1 inch spacer on first then the flex plate.

My prop adapter doesn't line up with the holes on my flex plate

what i did, on this option, was to mill out the center of the flywheel so it would be exactly centered on the arrow prop hub. and then i re-drilled the holes in the flex plate to line up with the holes on the arrow prop hub. (i can't find a picture of when doing that) and i also did that with the 1" spacer that i used. i have a friend with an larger mill and lathe, to do this on. if your hole is a little off center, it can really raise havick with the starter pacing. it took longer to center the flywheel on the mill. that it did to bore out the hole to slide over the stub on the hub. and i picked up a 5 inch round off of ebay for the spacer. this too we centered it to the hub and drilled matching holes using the hub for a template.

there are a few different ways to get to the end result. but i can't stress enough to use a method, that you will end up with a centered and balanced attachment.
i have since changed the style of starter, to the style that bgmcl60 is using, with this style you don't need to worry about the prop hitting the nose cone, and you may not even need to use a pacer to hold the flywheel away from the prop. i just haven't had time to do anything with my 084 except to drill and tap holes to mount the starter to the existing bracket that i made a couple of winters ago.