Ok...the nut case could use some pro hull help. I know a little about stringers but not a lot.

I do know that the originals were a bad idea from the start but that is about it. Oh and I do know they need replaced.

So here is the nut case as built.
http://i667.photobucket.com/albums/vv32/Wildfowl2009/Pearl/Pearl056-1.jpg

http://i667.photobucket.com/albums/vv32/Wildfowl2009/Pearl/Pearl079.jpg

The shape of the stringers... Bad.
http://i667.photobucket.com/albums/vv32/Wildfowl2009/Pearl/Pearl078.jpg

Here is how it all lays out...kind of...not to scale:
http://i667.photobucket.com/albums/vv32/Wildfowl2009/Pearl/Stringers.jpg

Any ideas on how to proceed with the new stringers? Any and all suggestions would be welcome even if experimental or included combustables and an ignition source. :lol:

I am torn about keeping some of the original skin intact or just trashing it all and starting from scratch.

Options:

A) Cut out the old and replace as original.
B) Cut out the old and replace with Seacast or similar.
C) Cut out the old and insert new edge set stringer in old channel and fill rest with Seacast.
D) Do "C" and add a center stringer.
E) Any of the above and add a cross bar too to keep the sides from lifting in...not sure it's needed???
F) Trash the old skin all together and put in new. Was thinking about adding one layer of cloth on the whole floor anyway. But just thinking about it.

Here the pic shows what "C" would look like. The blue is new stringer on edge and pink is the Seacast filling in the rest. Of course it all gets glassed in. Don't know enough about Seacast to make a decision...It might be strong enough to just fill in the old channel and glass over it. I guess it would have to be as rigid at 1 1/2" thick and 4"wide as a 1x4 on it's edge.

http://i667.photobucket.com/albums/vv32/Wildfowl2009/Pearl/StringersOptions.jpg

This could get interesting...thanks in advance!

Mine has about the same setup using the "C" channel but mine goes the full length.

Yeah I have noticed that on your rig. The C channel would be a good idea but I am wondering about getting glass to stick down tight to it when wraping it (the aluminum).

I don't know... turn it upside down and epoxy it to the bottom so there is a lot more surface area to stick to. There are some vinyl ester primers that would help the glass stick.

How far apart are your stringers Papee? Are they notched and bent to match the rake?

Thanks,

I'm no help on the connection of the two materials. I have 3 stringers made of 1 1/2 x 3 Channel on 16" centers. Yes they are notched and welded to fit the rake.

Mike,

I sure as heck ain't a pro on stringers. I'm guessing that they were laid on thier sides to make them less of a trip hazard. But I do know they'd be stronger if stood up on edge.

And I've never heard of anyone using aluminum stringers in a glass boat. Not to say it won't work, but I've never heard of it. I have no clue about how well someone can bond aluminum to fiberglass.

My hull has verticle stringers, and I'm planning to add a false floor/floating deck on top of it (in the open area up forward) so that we have flat floor in that small open area.

It's still up for grabs on what I'll use for this false floor/floating deck. I know it will need to be light, so I'm thinking about aluminum tread plate. I'm also considering either stainless or aluminum expanded metal.

But I ain't got that far yet. :(

Duane

On your floor... I have used aluminum sheets and it has worked out good. One nice thing about that over the expanded metal is that it covers up a lot of dirt. Stuff like fish hooks and life jacket buckles and ropes and potato chips and the like gets dropped into the expaned and it is a pain. Same stuff just sits on top of the solid sheets and it's easy to pull out to clean. Not that much difference in weight for the area your doing. Good idea!

Mike,

All very good points. I hadn't even thought about all of the stuff that would fall through expanded metal.

Thanks,

Duane

The one that will probably torxs you the most is the sand/dirt. Probably because that will always be a comon denominator.

Fish hooks aint no fun either.

Any other thoughts/suggestions out there on how to restring this thing the right way or should we just burn it. :D

The bottom is square with no hooks or cavities w/exception of the two little fin things and they can stay or go at this point.

Wildfowl,

My theory is; if it worked originally why not use the same material?

I certainly am no expert. But i think I would just cut out the original and glass new ones in. You can use your grinder or whatever and cut those puppies right out.

Jim

PS: Before you burn it, put it in the shrinking machine and mail it to me. I have removed my rigging and need another hull ;garfield;

Wildfowl,

For what it's worth. The Tomcat had 4 plywood stringers, stood up on edge, glassed to the hull. They tied into one board connected to the transom. Lasted about 30 years before I cut them out. 3 out of 4 were still in excellent condition.

Airhead,

I wish I had that hull for my conventional river rig....hope you find a good replacement.

Bruce

Flathead,

That's why I am hesitant to start cutting on the hull. I like it for fishing the river myself and also, even though i got a real good deal on it, the hull alone is over $ 8000 new. At least that is what the man at Rescue One said and they build them.

The way i see it there is no guarantee of what it will do after it is cut. So I need an airboat hull or something cheap to experiment with.

Jim